Thursday, March 6, 2008

The Fountains of The Eternal City of Rome

The fountains of Rome have an ancient and glorious history. Examples range from the Eternal City's glory days in the 1st century AD to its even more glorious days during the Renaissance to the 18th century and beyond.

Other cities offer fountains that are barely beyond the utilitarian. But not Rome. Rome must have a water display that is a work of art, because Rome is itself one enormous museum.

The Trevi is unquestionably the most famous, but it has many competitors for the attention of Rome's many visitors.

Fontana del Tritone

The Fountain of Triton (Fontana del Tritone) is just one stellar example. Designed by the renowned Bernini in 1642, it is a masterpiece in the Baroque style. The central figure is a merman (the male equivalent of a mermaid), seated on a giant clamshell and flanked by dolphins.

Near the Spanish Steps is another Bernini work, his first in the genre. Displaying a half-sunken ship, the Barcaccia was a progenitor of the Baroque style in outdoor sculpture.

There is the Fountain of the Moor (Fontana del Moro), also by Bernini, yet another example of a sea-oriented theme. Sited at the southern tip of the Piazza Navona - itself worth a visit - the fountain depicts Neptune surrounded by his subjects. Four Tritons expel water as sea creatures frolic below.

The Fountain of Neptune adjacent to The Moor was a 19th century addition that features many of the same elements, but in a vastly different style.

One not by Bernini, but clearly influenced by his style, is the Fontana dei Tritoni by Francesco Bizzaccheri located in the Boario Forum in front of the Church of St. Maria. Set between the Temple of Male Fortune and the Temple of Vesta, it was built in 1715 at the dawn of the Age of Reason. Two powerful Tritons kneel on a large outcropping of rock and support a basin from which the fountain's water shoots.

Fontana di Trevi

But without a doubt the Fontana di Trevi, the Trevi Fountain, is the foremost example of the genre in Rome. Originally built in the 1st century AD, it was re-built between 1732 and 1751 at the orders of Pope Clement XII.

At 85 feet (26m) high and 65 feet wide (20m) it is the largest fountain in the city, and among the most beautiful. Sited at the rear of the Palace of the Dukes of Poli, it displays a familiar subject: Neptune, but this time riding a clamshell chariot behind two horses, amid Tritons and flanked by the gods of Health and Wealth.

It is here at the Trevi that hopeful tourists toss coins into the base, prompted by the legend that those who throw three coins into the water will one day return to Rome. The coins represent a healthy sum for the city's charities. Clever marketing was not unknown even in centuries past.

Nicola Salvi is often credited as the designer, but there are elements that suggest Bernini had a hand in its creation. The water source is from the Aqua Vergine aqueduct, the name of a legend depicted in the fountain itself. A virgin is said to have offered water to thirsty Roman soldiers.

No visit to Rome could be considered complete without seeing at least a few of its many famed fountains, outdoor sculpture at its finest.

Wednesday, March 5, 2008

Barcelona - La Boqueria

La Boqueria, Mercat de Sant Josep, St. Joseph's Market.... Whatever name you use to describe it the sights and smells will be the same. This bustling conglomeration of food stalls, restaurants and tapas bars is one of Barcelona's most often visited attractions. That last fact is all the more interesting since relatively few tourists seek fresh produce on their wanderings. But here one can find that and a great deal more.

Set in a structure built in 1840 La Boqueria is an artistic treasure as well as a culinary one. The sign itself above the entrance, a fine Catalonian example of Art Nouveau, is well worth a look. The glass and iron enclosure comprises (and partially hides) a 19th century building that shares much with its cousins throughout the city. Aspects of the market are still being re-discovered. Several Ionic-style columns were only uncovered in 2001 after a long absence.

But the art on display resides as much in what is sold there as where it is sold. The endless palette of colors formed by artichokes, oranges, carrots, ham and fish of all description requires a photograph (or, better still, a visit) to truly convey. If you're looking for an afternoon snack, a drink or just a fascinating look at the best market in Europe, you could find none finer.

Anyone wanting to wander through La Boqueria has a number of options. Seen from above it would resemble a hub with spokes.
At the center are the fish sellers who offer an array of local species so fresh some of them are still wiggling. Barcelona is on the coast of the Mediterranean Sea. Wander in any direction and you'll run into mushroom stalls offering some of the world's finest truffles. Move one way and you'll see the juiciest cherries to be found anywhere on the continent. Stroll the other way and you'll come upon zucchini so fresh the blossoms are still attached.

Set around the perimeter are a number of great bars and restaurants. The Pinotxo (Pinocchio) is famed for its wide selection of drinks, its excellent tapas and its extraordinary collection of bar stools. Don't miss seeing the ceramic portrait of the famed marionette character displayed there.

The El Quim de la Boqueria is another superb option. In a city full of outstanding tapas bars, El Quim stands near the pinnacle. The bar is full of great food, lively customers and sports a happy atmosphere. Locals often enjoy the fresh squid for breakfast.

The exterior of the market provides several interesting sights as well. Just outside the entrance are animal stalls that sell birds, lizards and other small pets.

La Boqueria is about halfway between Carrer del Carme and Carrer de l'Hospital, close to the Liceu metro stop. It's not far from the famed cathedral, La Seu, in the center of Barri Gotic (the Gothic Quarter). St. Joseph's Market is open from early in the morning until late in the evening, but the liveliest times are in the afternoon.