Friday, December 14, 2007

When in Barcelona, visiting the Temple de la Sagrada Familia is a must!

Antonio Gaudi is Barcelona's patron architect. Much of the city bears his stamp. Nowhere is this more evident than in his unfinished masterpiece, The Temple of the Holy Family. Work began in 1883 but halted after the architect's untimely death from a tram accident in 1926.

On its way to becoming as tall as nearby Montjuic mountain (564 feet/172m), this tribute to the architect's passion is one of Barcelona's great wonders. Over a 120 years later, the cathedral is still actively under construction, and is scheduled to continue for the next 40 years.

The exterior is a series of spires surrounding a narrow portal that admits visitors to the interior. Looking at the unusual towers, it's clear where Cesar Pelli, the designer of the Petronas Towers in Malaysia, received his inspiration.

But before going in, take time to marvel at the hundreds of small friezes that adorn the facade. There are figures of saints and ordinary folk alike, all done in a fantastic modern style unlike any other church. At times, they appear almost cubist.

Note the many high-arched windows that surround the building, shedding light to the interior of the church that glows like a candle on a sunny day. Higher above them the slits in the spires are still more narrow, bringing the eye up to the top and then the sky.

Then enter this magnificent structure.

On the ground floor there are several reconstructed scale models of the work as Gaudi envisioned it. Most of the originals were destroyed. Photographs show the progress of construction as the building has gone through several stages. There are some of Gaudi's funeral, as well.

Visitors who look closely at them can see many reflections of elements in the building. The Nativity scene, the story of the serpent in the garden and many others are easily visible at the base of the central column of the Portal of Charity. The column itself is a work of sculpture unlike that found in any other city, with a complete genealogy of Christ.

Yet even the relatively plain columns are a wonder to behold. Starting out with simple Greek-style fluting they arch seamlessly high above the visitor's head where they branch out like living trees. Joining them are a series of organic-looking flowers in stone.

Nearby is the Portal of Faith with scenes of Jesus preaching as a teen, surrounded by religious symbols such as grapes and wheat. The Portal of Hope on the other side shows animals and plants from the Nile, another site with religious significance. Sculptures of Joseph and Mary sit beneath a sculpted boat piloted by St. Joseph.

Easily the most famous building in a city with many of them, the Temple de la Sagrada Familia could consume a day on any visit to Barcelona. Plan to spend at least a couple of hours musing among the hundreds of items to see.

A walk to remember at the Champs-Elysées

Not merely a boulevard, the Champs-Elysées has justly earned its name. In Greek mythology, the Elysian Fields was the resting place of heroes who dwelt in perfect happiness. Fortunately, visitors don't have to die to reach it. Though you may think so after making your way through the French airports and into Paris.

This tree-lined avenue begins at the Arc de Triomphe and ends 2km (1.2mi) east at the Egyptian Obelisk, through the 8th arrondissement. An 'arrondissement' is a district. Paris is divided into twenty with the first at the center and the others winding clockwise around it.

Along this avenue, one of a handful known by name the world over, is arrayed a cornucopia of cinemas and theaters, cafes and restaurants, and shops and hotels that rival those of Fifth Avenue in New York.

Originally parkland, by the late 1700s the Champs-Elysées had become the street to see and on which to be seen. Beginning in 1916 Louis Vuitton formed an association to transform it into a commercial shopping area. The mixture of commerce and fashion survives to the present.

The character of the road changes along its length with one part forming the commercial area (Place Charles de Gaulle) and the other a walking area lined with chestnut trees and flower beds (Place de la Concorde). After Unirii Blvd in Bucharest it is the widest avenue in Europe.

Above the greenery rise two large buildings, the Petit Palais (which is anything but small) and the Grand Palais. Both house several rotating exhibits. Overflowing with neo-classical carvings and statuary they both deserve a look.

Food and drink along the avenue runs the spectrum from the Fouquet, an upscale bar and restaurant, to McDonald's. But there is also the opportunity to sit at one of the many outdoor cafes and simply watch the parade of people while sipping excellent coffee.

There are dozens of shops - everything from the Gap, Lacoste or the Disney Store to specialty boutiques. Through them the Champs-Elysées maintains the reputation for fashion it has enjoyed since the mid-1800s.

Along with the designer stores there are several first class hotels. Whether interested in the Hotel Napoleon, termed 'the place' by Errol Flynn, or the Frontenac, or one of the dozen others all have been excellently maintained over the years. Even for those who can't afford to stay, the lobbies make for a delightful (if discreet), visit.

Not only the hotels, but the avenue itself has enjoyed several upgrades over the years. The latest, completed in 1993, widened the sidewalks to allow for greater foot traffic. Even the streetlamps have been refurbished. The results help to maintain the avenue's reputation as "la plus belle avenue du monde" ("the most beautiful avenue in the world").

It may be pointless to describe how to reach the Champs-Elysées, since to be here is to be in Paris. But to be concrete, one can take the metro (subway) to Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile, George V or Champs-Elysées Clemenceau.

Wednesday, December 12, 2007

The attraction that is now legend - The Leaning Tower of Pisa

After over a decade of being strapped in steel cables and inaccessible to tourists, La Torre di Pisa is open once again. Nearly $30 million was spent to prevent the tower from leaning any further to avoid total collapse. Now it is good for another 300 years.

Begun in 1173 AD, the tower has been an architectural problem almost from its beginning. Owing to soft ground and a shallow foundation, the tower began to lean as early as the time the third floor was completed. This despite the over 13 foot-thick walls at the base. But engineers at the time had few resources to call on. There was no ground penetrating radar, geological science, lasers or huge cranes to right the work.

Ironically, the tower is not, or more accurately was not, the main attraction of the site. It was intended as a bell tower for the nearby cathedral. Both are extraordinary works of Romanesque-Gothic art. It's only because of an unfortunate engineering failure that the tower is the more famous of the two structures.

But far from being considered a failure at the time, it was not completely unknown for buildings to be less than perfect 800 years ago. There are examples in Germany, Ireland and even not far away inside Tuscany of both towers and rectangular buildings that lean slightly.

Still, visitors today will be thrilled by the view from below or above.

From the base, standing far back from the tower, one can see the round, layer-cake type facade. The base is somewhat plain, but not far up there are magnificent columns. The elaborate carving is even more amazing when one considers that the major construction effort was completed less than 200 years after beginning.

The project was stalled for about 100 years while the Pisans engaged in battles with Genoa and other Italian city-states of the period. Then, picking up in 1275 AD it stalled again in 1284 AD, just before the belfry was added. Finally, in 1360, the building topped out at 51m/167ft.

From the perspective of distance those who observe carefully can see that not only is the tower leaning (which is obvious), but that it is curved as well. Noting the lean, builders attempted to compensate by making some of the floors taller on the side opposite. The result gives the tower its slight banana shape.

Fortunately, since digging out 70 tons of earth from below the ground, the tower was reopened in 2001. Visitors in bunches of 30 can now go up inside for a 35-minute guided tour. Be sure to obtain tickets well in advance. It's a hugely popular attraction.

Now, tourists can see the surrounding area from on high, as well as some of the magnificent bells in the belfry. Not to worry about the lean, though. It's only 13 feet from the vertical and modern engineering has ensured a safe visit.

Tuscany - The personification of art in an entire region

Tuscany may be the world's only truly organic work of art. The region and all it contains is one enormous museum, both natural and man-made. Here, as in few other places, the beauty of nature and human creation are integrated into a harmonious whole.

For centuries the region has been the site of olive groves, wineries and hills of unparalleled loveliness. At the same time, cities like Siena, San Gimignano, Pisa and Florence have provided works of architecture, painting and sculpture that are at the pinnacle of achievement.

Though much of the look of Tuscany is from the Middle Ages and beyond, this region of Italy has been settled for over 3,000 years. Ancient Etruscans built homes and fortresses that are still extant. The Romans continued the effort and there is still much evidence of their influence. But it was with the late Middle Ages and the aptly named Renaissance that Tuscany came into its present greatness.

The Duomo (or, cathedral) in Pisa alongside the famed Leaning Tower is just one example. Two of the finest examples of Romanesque-Gothic architecture, both are still standing almost 1,000 years after their births. The Siena Cathedral is yet another example of outstanding religious-themed building that continues to delight visitors nine centuries after its first brick was laid.

The towers of San Gimignano, first erected as defensive structures in the Middle Ages, show that even warfare in this Italian region created art. There are other grisly reminders in this Tuscan town of a different kind of art, one that inflicts cruelty rather than inspires. The Medieval Torture Museum here provides over 100 examples of objects that, unfortunately, brought this human endeavor to a high art, too.

But a grander, more elevating type of art can be found in Fiesole, just outside Florence. Here the Roman Theater, erected in the 1st century BC, still offers plays and musical performances 2,000 years later. Visitors can hear the lines of a comedy by Terence or Plautus that were first spoken here two millennia earlier.

In Tuscany, even the towns are works of art. The Piazza Grande in Cortona provides one outstanding example. This hilltop town sports a Town Hall from the 6th century. But that's relatively recent compared to the ancient Etruscan walls erected over 2,600 years ago. The 'modern' Great Cloister of the Monastero Di Monte Oliveto Maggiore, built in 1443, provides frescoes that are the envy of anything to be found in more famous Florence.

But, of course, that great republic still retains the top spot in man-made creations. The Galleria dell'Accademia housing Michelangelo's David is one convincing piece of evidence. But the proof is sealed by the contents of the Uffizi Gallery, holding more Renaissance masterpieces per square yard than any other museum in the world.

Still, even the natural beauty of the Tuscan villas, the countryside and the great vistas of this peaceful corner of Italy compete well with the works of Raphael and Da Vinci. A short bike tour will persuade even the most ardent art lover of that.

Tuesday, December 11, 2007

The Sistine Chapel - Meticulously crafted masterpiece

Though named after Pope Sixtus IV, who commissioned the chapel construction, the Sistine Chapel was given everlasting fame by Pope Julius II. For, in 1508, it was he who commissioned Michaelangelo to paint frescoes to cover the 10,000 square foot ceiling.

But on the way to the ceiling there are many delights for visitors to Rome and Vatican City, of which the Sistine forms a part. The chapel is nearby the Vatican Museum, itself worth a day or two. And, St. Peter's is also not far away with another Michaelangelo masterpiece, the Pieta not to mention the dome of the basilica.

The chapel itself is on the small side, only 41m (135 ft) by 13.4m (44ft). But within these walls are works of art that would happily be acquired by any of the major art museums in the world. All have benefited from a large restoration project carried out from 1979 to 1999.

Many famous names are represented and many others that should be better known. There are several Botticelli works here, including the 1482 Life of Moses and The Punishment of Korah. Alongside and nearby are Perugino, Ghirlandaio and Rosselli, master artists of the period.

Of course, the main attraction - and properly so - remains the Sistine Ceiling. Formerly decorated only with a bland covering of painted stars, after four years of literally back breaking labor, Michaelangelo transformed it into the glorious nine-panel magnum opus it is today.

Drawing from stories in the Old Testament, Michaelangelo festooned the ceiling with Sibyls, prophets, Noah, obscure nude males, and - not least - Jehovah giving life to Adam with the touch of a finger.

Cleaned and restored in the 1990s, the ceiling shows the magnificent colors of one of the five greatest painters the world has ever seen. As Goethe described it:

"Without having seen the Sistine Chapel one can form no appreciable idea of what one man is capable of achieving."

Spending four years on a specially constructed scaffold, the paint nearly making him blind, the great artist had to devise and supervise a dozen innovations. Just as one example, an entirely new plaster - intonaco, still in use today - was created to resist mold and hold the paint properly.

Though the main sections were completed in 1512, Michaelangelo returned to the work more than 20 years later to paint the Last Judgment, beginning in 1535 and finishing the work in 1541. It too is not to be missed. Nor can it be, really, since it covers the entire wall behind the altar of the Sistine Chapel.

Among other fascinating aspects is the depiction of St. Bartholomew, a self-portrait that shows the figure having his skin flayed. Michaelangelo was heavily criticized at the time, and by powerful figures, for his frequent depiction of nude figures. Though he won a temporary victory, the genitalia were later painted over.

Even those not usually interested in fine art come away from seeing the Sistine Chapel with a sense of awe. No visit to Rome is complete without a viewing of this site of so many masterpieces.

Arc de Triomf in Barcelona - A different take...

Though it carries the same name as its French cousin, the Arc de Triomf in Barcelona is quite different, both architecturally and historically.

The famous one in Paris (though France actually has several that go by that name) was initiated by Napoleon to memorialize his victories. The Barcelona Arc de Triomf was erected for the 1888 Universal Exposition held at the Parc de la Ciutadella, where it served as the entrance to the event.

It is equally different in appearance. Though it shares the same large scale and general 'arch with horizontal lintel and vertical posts' look, this one is a bright orange brick that gives it a much less somber facade. The style is similar to Moorish designs, known as Mudejar, not surprising since they dominated Spain for centuries.

The decorations around the structure vary widely, too, from the French tourist attraction. The exterior is festooned with stone carvings, including a frieze executed by the sculptor Josep Reynés. The delightful work symbolizes the welcoming of visitors to Barcelona. On the opposite side, a stone carving called Recompense executed by Josep Llimona decorates the wall.

Along the horizontal sections above the arc there are twelve statues of women representing various aspects of the city. It is accompanied by decorative elements symbolizing all the other provinces of Spain. At the top above the central figure there is a superbly crafted Coat of Arms, the official logo of Barcelona. Alongside the shield are two impressive looking lions. Those elements show an interesting mix and a deviation from Moorish influence, since Islamic art is decorative but contains no human or animal figures.

But the Moorish influence continues in the small minaret-style caps that adorn each of the integrated pillars on each side. Those are difficult to see from street level. But careful observation will reveal outstanding carving around each small dome, capped by a stellar carved ball at the very top.

Located between Passeig de Lluís Companys and Passeig de Sant Joan, the Arc de Triomf is easy to find. Many popular hotels are located within a kilometer of the entrance to Ciutadella Park where the arch is located. It can be seen easily at the end of the wide promenade running in front of them.

Can't miss it when going to Paris - The Arc de Triomphe

Though less artistic than its older cousin of Porte Saint-Denis, the Arc de Triomphe de l'Etoile is the more famous and far larger. Set atop the hill of Chaillot it forms the center from which radiates a dozen busy Parisian avenues.

There are in fact several "Arc de Triomphe's" in Paris. A large arch with two thick towers surmounted by a large horizontal section has been a popular architectural feature since the time of Louis XIV (the '14th') in the late 17th century.

But the one located at the intersection of the Champs-Elysées and the Avenue de la Grande Armée (along with 10 other streets) is the one sought out by most visitors.

Its elaborate carvings and friezes make the work an artistic delight, but the monument's sheer size - unimaginable merely from photographs - turns it into an architectural marvel. The Arc is 50m (164 ft) high, 45m (148ft) long, and 22m (72ft) wide. The vaulted passageway is 30m (98ft) tall.

As you stand underneath the structure (though given the traffic in Paris, never in the center, unfortunately) you're overwhelmed by the massive stone. Here it's easy to imagine Napoleon's armies marching triumphantly down the boulevard and through the opening.

Commissioned in 1806 and completed in 1836, it was constructed for the purpose of celebrating Napoleon's victories. Ironically, Napoleon never had the chance to do so. Wellington defeated his army at Waterloo in 1815 bringing an end to Napoleon's self-glorifying monument construction projects.

The monument can be seen from several different sections of Paris far away, in part thanks to the Parisian zoning restrictions forbidding the construction of tall buildings.

But the structure can be seen not only from far away or under the arch, but underneath and inside as well. There's a tunnel under the street from one side to the other and a spiral staircase in the interior.

At the base are four large relief sculptures set on the bases of four pillars. Engraved around the top are names of major victories of the period. Along the sides are the names of 558 generals - those underlined died in action.

Since the end of WWI the Arc has held the Tomb of the Unknown soldier, commemorating the dead killed between 1914 and 1918. The permanently burning Flame of Remembrance forms a touching part of the impressive monument.

Inside the arch ('arc' is French for 'arch') there's a small museum with displays pertaining to its history. (Admission covers the museum and access to the top.)

From the top the views, as they are anywhere above Paris, are awe-inspiring. Not for nothing is it known as the 'City of Lights'. From there the visitor can see the Louvre and the Place de la Concorde and other well-known sights.

The Arc de Triomphe is most easily reached via the Metro (subway). Exit at the Charles de Gaulle – Etoile station. Or simply stroll down the Champs-Elysées, you can't miss it.

Visiting the Colosseum in Rome

Il Colosseo as the Romans refer to it began life as the Flavian Amphitheater, an enormous elliptical stadium capable of seating 50,000 spectators within its six acre domain.

During the 1st century AD, and for hundreds of years thereafter, the Colosseum was host to grisly spectacles of human-human and human-animal combat. Slight evidence of those activities remains among the ruins, chiefly the underground vaults and tunnels that served as storage and entrances for the combatants.

Though the building has suffered repeated fire and earthquake damage over the centuries, remnants of its ancient glory can be seen in numerous places.

Looking over the huge arena from atop its 48m (157ft) height, it isn't difficult to imagine the show below as if it had happened only yesterday. True, the red brick arches are crumbling and the slaves and lions are long gone. But this popular Roman site remains alive with the ghosts of battles past and the many tourists in its present.

The seats are arranged in layers, almost all of which look out over the many levels of arch upon arch surrounding this vast expanse. Sitting in one, a visitor can almost hear the roar of the crowd as the Emperor's retinue enters through one of the four entrances used solely by them. The other 76 were for the average Roman citizen.

Opening in 80 AD after eight years of labor by 15,000 slaves and engineers, the Colosseum gained its now-common name from a 40m (130ft) nearby statue, the Colossus. Thought to have once had Nero's likeness, the statue displayed the face of a succession of Roman emperor's down the years. Evidence of the base of the bronze giant can still be seen between the Colosseum and the Temple of Roma and Venus not far away.

For 100 days after its debut, the arena was host to celebrations both noble and barbarian (to modern eyes). Fights to the death among enslaved gladiators, Roman versions of lion taming, considerably harsher than modern circus acts and many other displays of violence were common fare.

Seating was arranged by rank - the Emperor had a box near the base and women who were not part of the Royal party were relegated to the upper levels. But even from there it would not have been too difficult to see the results of the combat. Even from that height it would not have been to hard to see rhinos, hippos and elephants who were used in the 'shows' along with the more well-known lions and tigers.

The masts and velarium - a canopy covering part the large area to provide shade - have disappeared, long ago succumbing to the changes of the ages. But the immense columns and walls remain, ranging from Doric on the first story, to Ionic on the second, finishing with Corinthian on the third.

Visitors will marvel at the rest of the architecture, as well, that even today forms the basis of arenas around the world. It was one of the first, and certainly the largest and most well-known, to be free-standing. Most prior examples had been dug out of a hillside, of which many exist in and near Rome.

No visit to Rome is complete with a tour of the Colosseum.

Welcome to Barcelona - City of Catalonia

Barcelona is an ancient city, born of the Roman Empire. But like many great cities around the world, it flowered in the late Middle Ages and blossomed in the mid-19th century. Yet there are many exciting elements of the modern period there, as well. These periods are all evident in this northeastern Spanish city on the Mediterranean Sea coast.

Visitors can find a remnant of old Roman architecture here and there, in the form of part of an aqueduct in the Barri Gotic (Gothic Quarter) and some of the streets. But unlike Rome itself, most of the older buildings are from the time that give this area its name. The medieval years saw many of Barcelona's famed churches born, including the world famous La Seu.

The late 19th-early 20th century is alive and well in this artistic city, too, thanks to Antonio Gaudi and his patrons. Park Guell and the Sagrada Familia are two notable examples, but there are many others. The Casa Milà is still another. Even the lampposts outside the Pla de Palau show the distinctive touch of this unique artist.

But Gaudi has hardly been alone in forming the great buildings and monuments of Barcelona. The Arc de Triomf, built for the 1888 Universal Exhibition, is an outstanding example. Though not to well known as the Parisian structure of that name, it is no less a thing of beauty. The many sights of Cituadella Park, Montjuic, and other areas of the city provide still more samples of the great things to see here.

The whole range of art throughout these centuries is on display at MNAC (Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya). Here, visitors can find examples of objects from the Romanesque period (early 11th century) and continuing through the turn of the century, works drawn from all over Catalonia.

The modern era has hardly been neglected in Barcelona, either.

The Poble Espanyol, like many other famed structures in the city, was built for the 1929 International Exhibition. This collection of over 100 buildings was drawn from every style in Spain. Apart from seeing the whole range of Spanish residential architecture in a single location, visitors can shop, dine and dance to their hearts content.

For those after a fine combination of food and civic art a tourist could do no better than a visit to La Boqueria, the Mercat de Sant Josep, or St. Joseph's Market. Housed in a stellar 19th century structure, dozens of produce stalls offering every kind of native fruit and vegetable greet wanderers. Then when it's time for a rest, shoppers can sample one of the several superb tapas bars, such as Pinotxo.

Once refreshed, head out to the Barcelona Zoo or the Aquarium at Port Vell or to the top of Montjuic for an unforgettable view of the entire city of Barcelona. For, no matter where they go in this world-class city, visitors will be presented with some of the finest things to see and do anywhere in Europe.