Friday, December 28, 2007

Just cruising along Port Vell, Barcelona...

Barcelona is a city by the sea, the Mediterranean Sea to be exact. Like most coastal towns its history and ambiance are affected by that fact. For centuries the harbor was the scene of seafarers and townspeople bustling about on the traditional business that takes place at any port.

But Port Vell fell into disuse over the generations. Its warehouses fell empty, its railroads less traveled, its industrial buildings grew quiet. Fortunately, like many coastal towns such as San Francisco and Boston, Barcelona saw an opportunity to revitalize its seaside area.

In an ambitious urban renewal effort lasting years, the wharf became a yacht basin, the buildings transformed into shops, an IMAX and an aquarium. Its rail lines became walkways for the thousands that now throng the area every year. A coastal road was even moved underground to enable visitors to walk safely from one exciting offering to another.

The Maremagnum is one major attraction. This new wooden pedestrian bridge is more than just a walkway over space and water. It is itself a thing of beauty. It is an artistic and practical connection between the Rambla de Mar and many of the shops, theaters and restaurants that dot the area. Behind it lies the IMAX and the outstanding aquarium.

Like many in larger cities, the IMAX offers an enormous 3-D screen. But there is also a flat screen IMAX and an Omnimax. Here, visitors can take advantage of any of the three different shows that play continuously. There are discount tickets available that will get you into all three events.

The aquarium is the largest attraction of the area and its popularity is well deserved. With 8,000 aquatic animals, including a dozen sharks, this 1.5 million gallon facility will delight animal lovers of all ages. One section offers an 80m/262ft long observation tunnel. Along the glass walls you can see hundreds of native deep sea species, as well as the sharks.

South of the Maremagnum lies the Aduana building. The structure was erected in 1902 and served as the customs house. It now provides an outstanding sight for visitors who want to get a feeling for turn of the 20th century architecture in Barcelona. Nearby, stretched along the pier, is Barcelona's World Trade Center.

Even the sea sights will be of interest to many visitors. The upscale yachts and sailing ships are a delight to the eye. One can often see them moving gracefully around the sea just off shore. Take a boat tour and enjoy a view of Barcelona available nowhere else in the city. The peaceful cruise provides a nice contrast to the bustling waterfront.

Then take a stroll up the road a short way and spend some time viewing the Monument a Colon (Columbus Monument). The explorer is memorialized on top of a 60m/197ft column in the form of a statue that points toward the sea.

The monument, erected in 1888, resides at the site where the great man landed in 1493 after his discovery of the direct sea route to America. It is located in the center of the Placa del Portal de la Pau (Square of the Gate of Peace).

Enjoy an afternoon of sunbathing and dining or catch a show. Go cycling or rollerblading then have a cool drink at one of the many bars. Port Vell is easy to find. Just walk east until you hit a very large expanse of blue-green water topped by an azure sky, or take the Metro to Drassanes.

Appreciating the Piazza del Duomo in Pisa

The Leaning Tower of Pisa may be the most famous landmark of this Tuscan city. But, there are many other stellar sights to see in the Piazza del Duomo where the tower is located.

Scattered around lush green lawn lie some of the world's finest architectural achievements. There's the famed campanile, of course. But there is also the Duomo or cathedral itself to which the leaning tower is 'merely' a bell tower.

Begun in 1063, over a hundred years prior to the tower, the cathedral is the very prototype of late Romanesque architecture in this area of the world. With a floor plan in the standard shape of a cross, it is 100m (328 feet) long by 35m (115 feet) wide. Though not enormously tall by contemporary standards its 34m (112 feet) height would have been extremely impressive to citizens of its day.

Approach from the usual entrance and you'll see magnificent bronze doors, decorated with religious scenes that would have been fully familiar to its visitors. Carved in the 12th century by Bonanno, they're known as the Porta di San Ranieri.

There are Moorish influences around the building as well, owing to the Muslim traders the Italians did business with frequently. The cathedral was the first structure to incorporate horizontal stripes of marble of the sort commonly seen in Moorish architecture.

Some of the rounded arches provide a setting for outstanding mullioned windows. The carvings are so delicate it's difficult to believe they could have been accomplished at the time. Marble inlaid with Moorish lozenges at the top, they're truly works of art in themselves. 'Lozenges', in this style of architecture, resemble the shape of the cough drop, hence the name.

Regrettably, a fire in 1595 AD destroyed much of the original art work in the interior. But the building itself bears few traces of that tragic event. Among the outstanding surviving components are the 14th century pulpit with Corinthian columns resting on lion statuary. It's festooned with carved panels depicting scenes from the New Testament of the Christian Bible.

Above the apse lies a copy of a bronze griffin (a winged lion), believed to have been imported from Egypt in the 11th century. The original was moved to the nearby Museo del Duomo. The transept door sports Romanesque panels depicting the life of Christ that are a marvel to this day.

Another survivor of the fire is the tomb of Emperor Henry VII completed in 1315. Atop it are a pair of Ghirlandaio angels that visitors should be sure not to miss.

According to his student, it was within this church that Galileo watched a pendulum swaying back and forth one day. This was one of the keys to his formation of the law of the pendulum, which states that the period, the time of swing, is the same regardless of the angle it starts at. It forms the basis of many clock designs.

Looking up at the frescoed dome it's easy to imagine the famous scientist becoming distracted away from the sermon and toward the stupendous building.

Wednesday, December 26, 2007

Peace and quiet in Rome at Villa Borghese

Like every metropolitan city, Rome is a bustling, buzzing hive of outdoor activity. While much of that is naturally a source of excitement for tourists, there comes a time when anyone will want to find some peace and quiet. No spot in Rome could serve that purpose better than Villa Borghese.

Moderate-sized by some standards, the Villa Borghese is 148 acres (80 hectares) of greenery containing aviaries, museums and a stunning artificial lake. A vineyard in the 16th century, Cardinal Borghese had it transformed into a park with geometric landscaping ala Versailles. A villa, whose design was based on a sketch by Cardinal Borghese himself, was later constructed.

By the end of the 18th century an artificial lake had been added in the center, which contains a small Ionic temple dedicated to the God of Healing.

Aviaries held several exotic bird species like peacocks and ostriches for the Borghese's viewing pleasure and gazelles once graced the gardens.

Donated to the Eternal City at the turn of the 20th century, it had grown to hold several temples, fountains and numerous sculptures. Among the latter are the original Tritons from the Fountain of the Moor from the structure in the Piazza Navona. The ones currently in the fountain are 19th century replicas.

The park, open to the public for 100 years, holds many other delights as well. At certain times of the year visitors may be fortunate enough to catch one of the many horse-jumping events in Siena Square. The Piazza di Siena amphitheater is sometimes used for outdoor concerts and there is a botanical garden. Nearby is a beautiful 18th century arch, the 'Arco di Settimio Severo', a stunning example of Baroque architecture.

There's even a small bar located in the middle of the park where a hungry visitor can have some authentic Italian pasta or sip a Campari. Not far from there are several pavilions built for the 1911 World Exposition representing many countries.

But unquestionably, much of the impetus for tourists are the many museums housed on the grounds.

The Museo e Galleria Borghese, for example, has on display several sculptures by Bernini, the artist responsible for many of Rome's famous fountains. Among other pieces, Bernini's Abduction of Proserpina by Pluto is here. The gallery also holds many paintings by masters of the Renaissance including Titian and Raphael.

Also on the grounds is the Museo Nazionale Etrusco, housed in the Villa Giulia. The villa derives its name from having been built as a summer residence for Pope Julius II in 1553. As the name suggests, the museum contains a number of Etruscan works excavated from the hills outside Rome.

Located north of the Spanish Steps, the entrances are above the Piazza del Poppolo and the Porta Pinciana at one end of the Via Veneto. The Villa Borghese offers tired tourists the perfect respite in a busy holiday. Spend a half-day or longer, fully recharge and prepare to take on the incomparable Roman nightlife.

Disneyland in Paris!

Affectionately known as DLP by Mouseketeers the world over, Disneyland Paris is a cornucopia of rides, restaurants, exhibits and all out fun for everyone. And in the last few years the fun has been doubled as Disney added the Walt Disney Studios park to an already jam packed adventure.

Many of the traditional rides from the California theme park were recreated (with some French twists) at the park and resort only 32 kilometers (19 miles) outside Paris.

There's the familiar Pirates of the Caribbean, on which the recent films were based and the love-it-or-hate-it It's A Small World ride, along with dozens more. The Legend of the Lion King show regularly sells out, so get tickets in advance.

The Star Tours in Discoveryland is both entertaining and educational. Disney can put those together like no one else! There's also the extremely popular Big Thunder Mountain in Frontierland that just has to be visited twice.

Space Mountain Mission 2 opened in April, 2005 and - as if it were possible - is even better than the original. Several of the rides have been updated since the park's opening in 1992 and they just get better and better.

The new Buzz Lightyear Laser Blast is launching and, as usual, version two is a shiny improvement over the already great Anaheim offering.

The park even houses restaurants that, in true French style, offer some of the best meals anywhere. The steaks at The Steak House are thick and the wine bottles bottomless. The service is a joyful blend of Gallic pride and American efficiency. The buffet at Chef Mickey's is plentiful and delicious and the kids will enjoy the Disney characters dancing around.

To round out the trip there are, of course, tons of shops and small exhibits of the sort familiar to Disney fans everywhere. And nearby is the Val d'Europe shopping mall with dozens more.

Part-owned by Disney, there's a large grocery store/department store (Auchon) 'at the Val' and lots of food choices. There's even a local Sephora for those who want to bring back a bottle of genuine French perfume.

If needed, parents can rent a stroller at the park and there are baby changing facilities. The Baby Care Centre on Main Street, USA provides facilities and supplies.

Hours change depending on the season, with slightly longer hours during the summer. They change from time to time, so check the website at http://www.disneylandparis.com.

Since queues can be long, it's best to get the 1-Day Passport pass that allows unlimited entrance and exit access to one park for the day. There's also a 3-Day 'Hopper' Passport that allows access to both parks and the days don't have to be consecutive, but it's pricey. Of course, the one day isn't cheap either. Check the website for current prices.

Getting to the park is easy. From Paris take the RER Line A – Marne-la-Vallee/Chessy Station. From the Charles de Gaulle or Orly airports, the VEA shuttle service offers direct rides to the Disneyland Resort Paris hotels every half hour.

Enjoy!

Sunday, December 23, 2007

Romantic vacations in villas in Tuscany

The Bed and Breakfast scene in Tuscany is booming. For good reason, since it offers something considerably different from its counterparts in other countries. Here, one can stay in a huge castle over 1,000 years old, or a tiny villa a 'mere' 100 years of age. Add in the surrounding countryside with its million and one things to see and you've got some very impressive numbers.

You can find accommodations near Lucca, offering a great location from which to explore Puccini's childhood home or the excellent art collection at the Villa Guinigi. Only an hour from Florence, visits to Siena, Cortona and other towns are a short trip away.

Or, those planning a trip to Tuscany may want to get something close to the spa resort of Montecatini Terme. Near Pistoia and not far from Lucca, the Residence Le Coloniche offers great rooms and outstanding food.

The Villa Gamberaia is set among the hills above Florence, not far from Fiesole in Settignano. Here one can get a superb view of the Arno and visit the famed Renaissance Gardens. Completed in the 17th century, the topiary art alone (trees trimmed into animal shapes), makes the stay well worthwhile.

For those looking for an authentic Tuscan farmhouse experience there are many choices. One of them is the Villa Dianella. Nestled next to olive groves and vineyards, the surrounding area makes for a peaceful place to stay.

To visit the Chianti area of Tuscany, one could do no better than a stay at the Villa Belfiore. Only a few miles from Florence, one gets a view of the Chianti hills, along with centuries-old vineyards and a modern swimming pool.

For those who want more than just a view of the vineyards, Rocca delle Macie near Castellina, or San Felice near Siena offer wine tasting tours along with the accommodations. Don't miss seeing the nearby Castello di Uzzano, an 11th century castle that dominates the hilltop.

Some of the villas are museums, rather than places to stay. But they too are worth the trip.

The Villa Castello was already built when it was acquired by the Medici in 1477. The masterpieces by Botticelli that once hung here are now in the Uffizi. But the villa itself is such a work of art one hardly misses them.

The Villa Petraia, once part of the estate on which resides the Villa Castello, offers several interesting sights. This medieval-era tower was once a summer residence of the Medici. With 17th century frescoes by Volterra and a 19th century ballroom enclosed in glass, it offers sights the tourist to Tuscany won't want to miss. If that isn't sufficient enticement add in a stroll in the multi-level gardens. With its oak woodland and numerous flower beds lovers of human and nature's art will both be satisfied.

Investigate the options, book early and then relax and enjoy your stay in a Tuscan villa.

While in Tuscany, do visit the Galleria dell'Accademia

The Accademia di Belle Arti Firenze, or Academy of Beautiful Art of Florence, as it's more formerly known, is just what the name states: a school of art. And it's true that students do study art here. They have since the Grand Duke of Tuscany, Pietro Leopold, gathered several schools under one roof in 1784. The roots of the school go back further, however, to the Academy of Art Design, founded in 1561. Yet, for visitors, it is the many art galleries that attract attention.


There is an extensive painting collection, with works ranging from the 13th through the 16th centuries. Not least are the 24 panels by Taddeo Gaddi depicting scenes from the life of Jesus. The Gallery also offers works by Uccello, Ghirlandaio, del Sarto and Botticelli. The Cassone Adimari, painted in the 1440s by Lo Scheggia, continues to attract a wide audience. Many of the paintings were collected for the specific purpose of providing the students with old masters to emulate and there are several here that serve that purpose well.

But, unquestionably, the works on display that attract the largest crowds are the busts and sculptures, and in particular Michelangelo's David.

Off the end of the left wing is a 19th century hall with one wall that is festooned with plaster casts, busts and sculpture. Providing the students with many examples to follow, it will also be of interest to lovers of art who can but look, rather than create. The highlight here is the original plaster of the Rape of the Sabine Women by Giambologna. The completed marble piece is in the Loggia dei Lanzi.

Along the main hallway visitors encounter several unfinished works of the great master, Michelangelo. The Four Captives (or Slaves) provide a glimpse into the working technique of one of the greatest artists in history. Scholars have debated whether they truly were unfinished or intentionally left partially clad in stone with only certain features defined. But lovers of sculpture will simply stand in awe of what even a partial work of those hands of genius could display.

At the end, on a specially constructed platform called the tribune, stands the main attraction: the David.

Made from a 16-foot piece of stone so oddly shaped that several other artists had abandoned it as impossible to work with, Michelangelo found in it good working material. From its depths he chipped, chiseled and polished one of the highest examples of three dimensional art ever created.

Attacked in 1991 by a madman with a hammer who managed to damage several toes before being stopped, it now resides behind a Plexiglas barrier. But visitors will still get a very good view of the masterpiece when they can jostle their way sufficiently through the crowd. Moved from the Piazza del Signoria in 1873 to preserve it after four centuries in the sun and air, it offers a sample of the pinnacle of art in a city full of outstanding works. A copy now stands where it once did.

Set atop a high pedestal, the more than life-sized statue is plainly visible. Viewers can easily pick out the ultra-lifelike muscles and veins. One can almost feel the warmth from a living being as the David stands in a relaxed but alert pose, ready for battle. Finished in 1504 by an artist not yet 30 years old, it is justly the most famous piece of sculpture in the world.

Come to the Galleria dell'Accademia in Florence and see why for yourself.

Friday, December 21, 2007

In Rome, there is the Spanish Steps!

Though the name may not be entirely accurate (they were built by the French), the Spanish Steps in Rome deliver true delight to visitors of any nationality. 'Ah,' some will say, 'they are just stairs'. A way to get from the Villa Mèdici to the Piazza di Spagna. But, as any traveler knows, it's how you get there that counts as much as the destination.

Constructed between 1723 and 1725 the Spanish Steps or Scalinata di Spagna are 137 steps arrayed near the Piazza di Spagna - a triangular outdoor plaza and one of Rome's most frequently visited tourist destinations.

These lovely steps, dark, elegant and winding up a moderate graded hill, connect some of the most active and delightful areas in Rome. At the same time, they are beautiful to see all on their own. A pleasure anytime of year, they are especially wonderful in spring when the city festoons the area with azaleas from its many municipal greenhouses.

They are alive with flowers, people and the hint of the warm summer to come. Rome can be hot, in the mid-80s, even in late October. Nearby are some of Rome's most upscale boutiques and dozens of restaurants, shops and sidewalk cafes. The steps themselves used to be a favorite place to rest and have a small lunch, though that is now forbidden. Naturally, Rome being Rome, that law is often ignored.

At the bottom is the La Barcaccia fountain (Fountain of the Old Boat), one of Bernini's many great outdoor works in the Eternal City. In the center is a sculpture of a ship that may have been designed by his son, Gian Lorenzo. Commissioned by Pope Urbano VIII Barberini in 1627, the water flows outward through 'leaks' in the ship.

While you are at that end, stop in and see the Keats-Shelley Memorial House. Then have something cool to drink in one of the numerous bars before starting your climb.

As you travel up, there are three large flat areas on which to rest and people-watch, shop or eat. At the top, be sure to look back and admire the stunning view before continuing on to the Church of Trinta dei Monti.

More formally known as the Santissima Trinita al Monte Pincio, construction began in 1502 but continued for almost two centuries. Built in the late Gothic style, the facade is neo-classical. Outside there's an obelisk, one of Rome's many instances of this Egyptian-style sculpture, first brought to Rome around the 3rd century AD.

Only a couple of blocks away is the infamous Via Veneto where many Italian girl was ogled and pinched in the 1950s. Today, the area is tamer but no less interesting. It's full of shops, restaurants and beautiful examples of Rome's architecture, old and new.

No visit to Rome would be complete without visiting this landmark of Rome. Though created by the French, and named for the long-gone 18th century Spanish Embassy to the Vatican, it is an international delight to all.

Parc Guell - The park that is a work of art...

Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Parc Guell is yet another of architect Antonio Gaudi's great gifts to the city of Barcelona. Built between 1900-1914, this 20-hectare park sits on the hills to the north of Barcelona's main areas. It provides a peaceful oasis of lush greenery and outstanding architectural elements.

On the northern edge of town, visitors have a spectacular vista to see much of Barcelona arrayed below. The terraced gardens provide an excellent combination of the natural and artificial. Seating available shows another example of the colorful mosaic tile that Gaudi loved to incorporate in his design for the park.

Stop at the small cafe on the outer edge before entering and have a cool drink. Barcelona can get very hot and many of the hills are steep. For visitors needing a little more sustenance, there are several small restaurants to choose from. Note the outstanding dragon-themed fountain as you enter. Take a moment to enjoy the multi-colored tile adorning it. Then stroll down the flower-festooned walkways dotted with many mosaic tiles that show Gaudi's distinctive influence.

But there are just as many interesting sights further inside the park itself. There's a museum dedicated to Gaudi's art, filled with photos and other items both instructive and decorative. Once the architect's house, it contains furniture designed by Gaudi himself.

Outside once again, alongside the lush shrubbery reside many worthy sights, including sculpture, columns, restaurants and museums. Even the benches are works of art. There is one enormous, curved example that is famed throughout the city, the Paseo de Palmas.

Further on are still more examples of wondrous sights. The Hall of the Hundred Columns (Sala de las Cien Columnas) is an array of classical supports. But what they support is drawn from later styles, such as the romantic-era balcony, which is covered in mosaic tiles of a more modern design.

Nearby there's a walkway supported by twisted rock pillars, introducing yet another style. Irregular and organic in appearance, they demonstrate another facet of the organic eclecticism Gaudi embraced.

There are a number of entrances to the park and visitors will want to choose accordingly. Taking the metro to the Lesseps stop, brings one to the base. That leads to a steep climb up the hill on which the park rests. Challenging, but great exercise in Barcelona's fine air. Taking the metro to the stop at Vallcarca brings the traveler via outdoor escalators to the top of the park, allowing for an easy walk down the hill.

Admission to the park is free and most buildings open at 10 a.m.

Monday, December 17, 2007

The unique architecture of The Centre National d'Art et de Culture Georges-Pompidou

Known to Parisians simply as Beaubourg (after the neighborhood), The Centre National d'Art et de Culture Georges-Pompidou is a museum of modern art rivaling the best in New York or London.

By design, so to speak, the architecture of the 1977 building is in sharp contrast to the traditional surrounding houses of Paris' oldest district.

Looking like a cross between a hyper-modern factory joined to a low-rise office building, it accurately reflects its contents. The red, blue and green pipes on the rear are only one example of the tradition busting goals of its makers.

Air conditioning ducts are in blue, water pipes are green and electrical conduits are colored yellow. Escalators are in red and the ventilation shafts are white in the underground areas.

The architects goals were to 'turn the building inside out', and they've largely succeeded. A low glass box that looks like the scaffolding is yet to be removed, the modern heir to Bauhaus displays air-conditioning ducts and metal stairs on the exterior.All the better to provide space for works on the interior, so it's said.

Sponsored by and named after the French president, the museum is a faithful reflection of the art trends of the last century. Every recognized name of the last hundred years is here alongside hundreds lesser or entirely unknown. Among the collection of 56,000 works are well-known names such as Matisse, Pollock, Miro, Braque, Chagall, Dali, Duchamp, Picasso, Kandinsky, Magritte, Klee... even Kelly and Warhol.

The Ten Lizes Warhol is not to be missed. An array of five small paintings atop another five, the work depicts Elizabeth Taylor in the now-familiar Warhol style. Multi-hued, multi-contrast and sharp-grained it presents Warhol at his Warholyist.

All the art movements of the last century are represented. There are examples of Fauvism, Cubism, Surrealism and Abstract Expressionism along with many that have no names.

Built at a cost of $100 million, the cultural center houses four major activities within its million square feet: the exhibits, a reference library, a center for industrial design and a center for music and acoustic research.

Ride the Plexiglas escalator to the top where there is a panoramic restaurant, 'Le Georges' at level six. One can sit and look out on the street performers at the Place George Pompidou in front, or view the nearby Stravinsky Fountain.

Pricey, but with good views of the skyline, the visitor can see Montparnasse, the Eiffel Tower and much more. Rest and refresh before continuing to view the massive collection.

The museum is easy to find. Take the metro (subway) to Rambuteau or Hotel de Ville.

The Pantheon - The work of genius that stood the test of time

Few ancient buildings have survived the ravages of time so well as the Pantheon in Rome. It is the only example of similar age, size and span that remains intact. The fact is no accident - it's largely the result of superior engineering.

Often copied, sometimes equaled but never surpassed, it had more architectural innovations than most modern buildings. All the more remarkable, given that it was built around 125 AD under the aegis of the emperor Hadrian.

The plan is simple enough: a circular enclosure aside a rectangular entrance. The entrance sports a classic Greek portico of granite columns topped by a triangular pediment. There are three ranks of the 39 ft Corinthian supports, eight in front and two sets of four further in leading to the main rotunda. A rectangular section joins the portico to the rotunda.

But within that simple design are a dozen signs of genius.

The giant concrete dome topping the cylinder forming the major component was so well designed and built that no similar type would stand up under its own weight.

The dome is 142 feet in diameter (46 feet larger than that crowning the White House in Washington, DC), while the oculus at the peak is over 25 feet of that total. It stands as a result of its unusual composition, outstanding engineering and brilliant construction.

Just one example is the oculus in the center - the opening through the top. It decreases the overall weight and serves as a ring that distributes stress around its circumference. Imagine, by analogy, how difficult it is to crush a bicycle wheel.

It also serves to admit light to the interior. And rain, too it must be said, though the floor is an early example of slanting the floor toward drains.

The dome's tapering steps provide yet more evidence of the mastery of craft displayed by the dome's designer. It's 20 feet thick at the base, 7.5 at the oculus and composed of heavier material at the bottom, lighter as it rises. That doesn't seem so remarkable until one considers that many architects a thousand years later ignored this simple idea.

Nearly two thousand years after its birth the Pantheon in Rome is as stable today as when it was first built. Yet it was constructed without the benefit of machines or modern tools.

Nor did the Pantheon engineers have the advantage of modern transportation methods. All the materials were floated down the Tiber and moved to the site by man and animal on carts of the period.

Though its enormous bronze doors have been restored many times, no major structural work has ever had to be undertaken. This is all the more remarkable given the marshy land on which the structure is built.

By contrast, observe there have been several decades-long projects to preserve the Leaning Tower of Pisa, owing in part to the soft ground in parts of the site. The Parthenon in Greece, though a great building, was a virtual ruin 2,000 years after its birth.

The Pantheon in Rome was first converted to a church during the 8th century and continues to serve that purpose today. In fact, the building has been in continuous use since first being built.

This amazing building has often been copied, two notable examples being the British Museum Reading Room and the Thomas Jefferson Rotunda at the University of Virginia.

When in Rome, be sure to spend time viewing the original.

Friday, December 14, 2007

When in Barcelona, visiting the Temple de la Sagrada Familia is a must!

Antonio Gaudi is Barcelona's patron architect. Much of the city bears his stamp. Nowhere is this more evident than in his unfinished masterpiece, The Temple of the Holy Family. Work began in 1883 but halted after the architect's untimely death from a tram accident in 1926.

On its way to becoming as tall as nearby Montjuic mountain (564 feet/172m), this tribute to the architect's passion is one of Barcelona's great wonders. Over a 120 years later, the cathedral is still actively under construction, and is scheduled to continue for the next 40 years.

The exterior is a series of spires surrounding a narrow portal that admits visitors to the interior. Looking at the unusual towers, it's clear where Cesar Pelli, the designer of the Petronas Towers in Malaysia, received his inspiration.

But before going in, take time to marvel at the hundreds of small friezes that adorn the facade. There are figures of saints and ordinary folk alike, all done in a fantastic modern style unlike any other church. At times, they appear almost cubist.

Note the many high-arched windows that surround the building, shedding light to the interior of the church that glows like a candle on a sunny day. Higher above them the slits in the spires are still more narrow, bringing the eye up to the top and then the sky.

Then enter this magnificent structure.

On the ground floor there are several reconstructed scale models of the work as Gaudi envisioned it. Most of the originals were destroyed. Photographs show the progress of construction as the building has gone through several stages. There are some of Gaudi's funeral, as well.

Visitors who look closely at them can see many reflections of elements in the building. The Nativity scene, the story of the serpent in the garden and many others are easily visible at the base of the central column of the Portal of Charity. The column itself is a work of sculpture unlike that found in any other city, with a complete genealogy of Christ.

Yet even the relatively plain columns are a wonder to behold. Starting out with simple Greek-style fluting they arch seamlessly high above the visitor's head where they branch out like living trees. Joining them are a series of organic-looking flowers in stone.

Nearby is the Portal of Faith with scenes of Jesus preaching as a teen, surrounded by religious symbols such as grapes and wheat. The Portal of Hope on the other side shows animals and plants from the Nile, another site with religious significance. Sculptures of Joseph and Mary sit beneath a sculpted boat piloted by St. Joseph.

Easily the most famous building in a city with many of them, the Temple de la Sagrada Familia could consume a day on any visit to Barcelona. Plan to spend at least a couple of hours musing among the hundreds of items to see.

A walk to remember at the Champs-Elysées

Not merely a boulevard, the Champs-Elysées has justly earned its name. In Greek mythology, the Elysian Fields was the resting place of heroes who dwelt in perfect happiness. Fortunately, visitors don't have to die to reach it. Though you may think so after making your way through the French airports and into Paris.

This tree-lined avenue begins at the Arc de Triomphe and ends 2km (1.2mi) east at the Egyptian Obelisk, through the 8th arrondissement. An 'arrondissement' is a district. Paris is divided into twenty with the first at the center and the others winding clockwise around it.

Along this avenue, one of a handful known by name the world over, is arrayed a cornucopia of cinemas and theaters, cafes and restaurants, and shops and hotels that rival those of Fifth Avenue in New York.

Originally parkland, by the late 1700s the Champs-Elysées had become the street to see and on which to be seen. Beginning in 1916 Louis Vuitton formed an association to transform it into a commercial shopping area. The mixture of commerce and fashion survives to the present.

The character of the road changes along its length with one part forming the commercial area (Place Charles de Gaulle) and the other a walking area lined with chestnut trees and flower beds (Place de la Concorde). After Unirii Blvd in Bucharest it is the widest avenue in Europe.

Above the greenery rise two large buildings, the Petit Palais (which is anything but small) and the Grand Palais. Both house several rotating exhibits. Overflowing with neo-classical carvings and statuary they both deserve a look.

Food and drink along the avenue runs the spectrum from the Fouquet, an upscale bar and restaurant, to McDonald's. But there is also the opportunity to sit at one of the many outdoor cafes and simply watch the parade of people while sipping excellent coffee.

There are dozens of shops - everything from the Gap, Lacoste or the Disney Store to specialty boutiques. Through them the Champs-Elysées maintains the reputation for fashion it has enjoyed since the mid-1800s.

Along with the designer stores there are several first class hotels. Whether interested in the Hotel Napoleon, termed 'the place' by Errol Flynn, or the Frontenac, or one of the dozen others all have been excellently maintained over the years. Even for those who can't afford to stay, the lobbies make for a delightful (if discreet), visit.

Not only the hotels, but the avenue itself has enjoyed several upgrades over the years. The latest, completed in 1993, widened the sidewalks to allow for greater foot traffic. Even the streetlamps have been refurbished. The results help to maintain the avenue's reputation as "la plus belle avenue du monde" ("the most beautiful avenue in the world").

It may be pointless to describe how to reach the Champs-Elysées, since to be here is to be in Paris. But to be concrete, one can take the metro (subway) to Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile, George V or Champs-Elysées Clemenceau.

Wednesday, December 12, 2007

The attraction that is now legend - The Leaning Tower of Pisa

After over a decade of being strapped in steel cables and inaccessible to tourists, La Torre di Pisa is open once again. Nearly $30 million was spent to prevent the tower from leaning any further to avoid total collapse. Now it is good for another 300 years.

Begun in 1173 AD, the tower has been an architectural problem almost from its beginning. Owing to soft ground and a shallow foundation, the tower began to lean as early as the time the third floor was completed. This despite the over 13 foot-thick walls at the base. But engineers at the time had few resources to call on. There was no ground penetrating radar, geological science, lasers or huge cranes to right the work.

Ironically, the tower is not, or more accurately was not, the main attraction of the site. It was intended as a bell tower for the nearby cathedral. Both are extraordinary works of Romanesque-Gothic art. It's only because of an unfortunate engineering failure that the tower is the more famous of the two structures.

But far from being considered a failure at the time, it was not completely unknown for buildings to be less than perfect 800 years ago. There are examples in Germany, Ireland and even not far away inside Tuscany of both towers and rectangular buildings that lean slightly.

Still, visitors today will be thrilled by the view from below or above.

From the base, standing far back from the tower, one can see the round, layer-cake type facade. The base is somewhat plain, but not far up there are magnificent columns. The elaborate carving is even more amazing when one considers that the major construction effort was completed less than 200 years after beginning.

The project was stalled for about 100 years while the Pisans engaged in battles with Genoa and other Italian city-states of the period. Then, picking up in 1275 AD it stalled again in 1284 AD, just before the belfry was added. Finally, in 1360, the building topped out at 51m/167ft.

From the perspective of distance those who observe carefully can see that not only is the tower leaning (which is obvious), but that it is curved as well. Noting the lean, builders attempted to compensate by making some of the floors taller on the side opposite. The result gives the tower its slight banana shape.

Fortunately, since digging out 70 tons of earth from below the ground, the tower was reopened in 2001. Visitors in bunches of 30 can now go up inside for a 35-minute guided tour. Be sure to obtain tickets well in advance. It's a hugely popular attraction.

Now, tourists can see the surrounding area from on high, as well as some of the magnificent bells in the belfry. Not to worry about the lean, though. It's only 13 feet from the vertical and modern engineering has ensured a safe visit.

Tuscany - The personification of art in an entire region

Tuscany may be the world's only truly organic work of art. The region and all it contains is one enormous museum, both natural and man-made. Here, as in few other places, the beauty of nature and human creation are integrated into a harmonious whole.

For centuries the region has been the site of olive groves, wineries and hills of unparalleled loveliness. At the same time, cities like Siena, San Gimignano, Pisa and Florence have provided works of architecture, painting and sculpture that are at the pinnacle of achievement.

Though much of the look of Tuscany is from the Middle Ages and beyond, this region of Italy has been settled for over 3,000 years. Ancient Etruscans built homes and fortresses that are still extant. The Romans continued the effort and there is still much evidence of their influence. But it was with the late Middle Ages and the aptly named Renaissance that Tuscany came into its present greatness.

The Duomo (or, cathedral) in Pisa alongside the famed Leaning Tower is just one example. Two of the finest examples of Romanesque-Gothic architecture, both are still standing almost 1,000 years after their births. The Siena Cathedral is yet another example of outstanding religious-themed building that continues to delight visitors nine centuries after its first brick was laid.

The towers of San Gimignano, first erected as defensive structures in the Middle Ages, show that even warfare in this Italian region created art. There are other grisly reminders in this Tuscan town of a different kind of art, one that inflicts cruelty rather than inspires. The Medieval Torture Museum here provides over 100 examples of objects that, unfortunately, brought this human endeavor to a high art, too.

But a grander, more elevating type of art can be found in Fiesole, just outside Florence. Here the Roman Theater, erected in the 1st century BC, still offers plays and musical performances 2,000 years later. Visitors can hear the lines of a comedy by Terence or Plautus that were first spoken here two millennia earlier.

In Tuscany, even the towns are works of art. The Piazza Grande in Cortona provides one outstanding example. This hilltop town sports a Town Hall from the 6th century. But that's relatively recent compared to the ancient Etruscan walls erected over 2,600 years ago. The 'modern' Great Cloister of the Monastero Di Monte Oliveto Maggiore, built in 1443, provides frescoes that are the envy of anything to be found in more famous Florence.

But, of course, that great republic still retains the top spot in man-made creations. The Galleria dell'Accademia housing Michelangelo's David is one convincing piece of evidence. But the proof is sealed by the contents of the Uffizi Gallery, holding more Renaissance masterpieces per square yard than any other museum in the world.

Still, even the natural beauty of the Tuscan villas, the countryside and the great vistas of this peaceful corner of Italy compete well with the works of Raphael and Da Vinci. A short bike tour will persuade even the most ardent art lover of that.

Tuesday, December 11, 2007

The Sistine Chapel - Meticulously crafted masterpiece

Though named after Pope Sixtus IV, who commissioned the chapel construction, the Sistine Chapel was given everlasting fame by Pope Julius II. For, in 1508, it was he who commissioned Michaelangelo to paint frescoes to cover the 10,000 square foot ceiling.

But on the way to the ceiling there are many delights for visitors to Rome and Vatican City, of which the Sistine forms a part. The chapel is nearby the Vatican Museum, itself worth a day or two. And, St. Peter's is also not far away with another Michaelangelo masterpiece, the Pieta not to mention the dome of the basilica.

The chapel itself is on the small side, only 41m (135 ft) by 13.4m (44ft). But within these walls are works of art that would happily be acquired by any of the major art museums in the world. All have benefited from a large restoration project carried out from 1979 to 1999.

Many famous names are represented and many others that should be better known. There are several Botticelli works here, including the 1482 Life of Moses and The Punishment of Korah. Alongside and nearby are Perugino, Ghirlandaio and Rosselli, master artists of the period.

Of course, the main attraction - and properly so - remains the Sistine Ceiling. Formerly decorated only with a bland covering of painted stars, after four years of literally back breaking labor, Michaelangelo transformed it into the glorious nine-panel magnum opus it is today.

Drawing from stories in the Old Testament, Michaelangelo festooned the ceiling with Sibyls, prophets, Noah, obscure nude males, and - not least - Jehovah giving life to Adam with the touch of a finger.

Cleaned and restored in the 1990s, the ceiling shows the magnificent colors of one of the five greatest painters the world has ever seen. As Goethe described it:

"Without having seen the Sistine Chapel one can form no appreciable idea of what one man is capable of achieving."

Spending four years on a specially constructed scaffold, the paint nearly making him blind, the great artist had to devise and supervise a dozen innovations. Just as one example, an entirely new plaster - intonaco, still in use today - was created to resist mold and hold the paint properly.

Though the main sections were completed in 1512, Michaelangelo returned to the work more than 20 years later to paint the Last Judgment, beginning in 1535 and finishing the work in 1541. It too is not to be missed. Nor can it be, really, since it covers the entire wall behind the altar of the Sistine Chapel.

Among other fascinating aspects is the depiction of St. Bartholomew, a self-portrait that shows the figure having his skin flayed. Michaelangelo was heavily criticized at the time, and by powerful figures, for his frequent depiction of nude figures. Though he won a temporary victory, the genitalia were later painted over.

Even those not usually interested in fine art come away from seeing the Sistine Chapel with a sense of awe. No visit to Rome is complete without a viewing of this site of so many masterpieces.

Arc de Triomf in Barcelona - A different take...

Though it carries the same name as its French cousin, the Arc de Triomf in Barcelona is quite different, both architecturally and historically.

The famous one in Paris (though France actually has several that go by that name) was initiated by Napoleon to memorialize his victories. The Barcelona Arc de Triomf was erected for the 1888 Universal Exposition held at the Parc de la Ciutadella, where it served as the entrance to the event.

It is equally different in appearance. Though it shares the same large scale and general 'arch with horizontal lintel and vertical posts' look, this one is a bright orange brick that gives it a much less somber facade. The style is similar to Moorish designs, known as Mudejar, not surprising since they dominated Spain for centuries.

The decorations around the structure vary widely, too, from the French tourist attraction. The exterior is festooned with stone carvings, including a frieze executed by the sculptor Josep Reynés. The delightful work symbolizes the welcoming of visitors to Barcelona. On the opposite side, a stone carving called Recompense executed by Josep Llimona decorates the wall.

Along the horizontal sections above the arc there are twelve statues of women representing various aspects of the city. It is accompanied by decorative elements symbolizing all the other provinces of Spain. At the top above the central figure there is a superbly crafted Coat of Arms, the official logo of Barcelona. Alongside the shield are two impressive looking lions. Those elements show an interesting mix and a deviation from Moorish influence, since Islamic art is decorative but contains no human or animal figures.

But the Moorish influence continues in the small minaret-style caps that adorn each of the integrated pillars on each side. Those are difficult to see from street level. But careful observation will reveal outstanding carving around each small dome, capped by a stellar carved ball at the very top.

Located between Passeig de Lluís Companys and Passeig de Sant Joan, the Arc de Triomf is easy to find. Many popular hotels are located within a kilometer of the entrance to Ciutadella Park where the arch is located. It can be seen easily at the end of the wide promenade running in front of them.

Can't miss it when going to Paris - The Arc de Triomphe

Though less artistic than its older cousin of Porte Saint-Denis, the Arc de Triomphe de l'Etoile is the more famous and far larger. Set atop the hill of Chaillot it forms the center from which radiates a dozen busy Parisian avenues.

There are in fact several "Arc de Triomphe's" in Paris. A large arch with two thick towers surmounted by a large horizontal section has been a popular architectural feature since the time of Louis XIV (the '14th') in the late 17th century.

But the one located at the intersection of the Champs-Elysées and the Avenue de la Grande Armée (along with 10 other streets) is the one sought out by most visitors.

Its elaborate carvings and friezes make the work an artistic delight, but the monument's sheer size - unimaginable merely from photographs - turns it into an architectural marvel. The Arc is 50m (164 ft) high, 45m (148ft) long, and 22m (72ft) wide. The vaulted passageway is 30m (98ft) tall.

As you stand underneath the structure (though given the traffic in Paris, never in the center, unfortunately) you're overwhelmed by the massive stone. Here it's easy to imagine Napoleon's armies marching triumphantly down the boulevard and through the opening.

Commissioned in 1806 and completed in 1836, it was constructed for the purpose of celebrating Napoleon's victories. Ironically, Napoleon never had the chance to do so. Wellington defeated his army at Waterloo in 1815 bringing an end to Napoleon's self-glorifying monument construction projects.

The monument can be seen from several different sections of Paris far away, in part thanks to the Parisian zoning restrictions forbidding the construction of tall buildings.

But the structure can be seen not only from far away or under the arch, but underneath and inside as well. There's a tunnel under the street from one side to the other and a spiral staircase in the interior.

At the base are four large relief sculptures set on the bases of four pillars. Engraved around the top are names of major victories of the period. Along the sides are the names of 558 generals - those underlined died in action.

Since the end of WWI the Arc has held the Tomb of the Unknown soldier, commemorating the dead killed between 1914 and 1918. The permanently burning Flame of Remembrance forms a touching part of the impressive monument.

Inside the arch ('arc' is French for 'arch') there's a small museum with displays pertaining to its history. (Admission covers the museum and access to the top.)

From the top the views, as they are anywhere above Paris, are awe-inspiring. Not for nothing is it known as the 'City of Lights'. From there the visitor can see the Louvre and the Place de la Concorde and other well-known sights.

The Arc de Triomphe is most easily reached via the Metro (subway). Exit at the Charles de Gaulle – Etoile station. Or simply stroll down the Champs-Elysées, you can't miss it.

Visiting the Colosseum in Rome

Il Colosseo as the Romans refer to it began life as the Flavian Amphitheater, an enormous elliptical stadium capable of seating 50,000 spectators within its six acre domain.

During the 1st century AD, and for hundreds of years thereafter, the Colosseum was host to grisly spectacles of human-human and human-animal combat. Slight evidence of those activities remains among the ruins, chiefly the underground vaults and tunnels that served as storage and entrances for the combatants.

Though the building has suffered repeated fire and earthquake damage over the centuries, remnants of its ancient glory can be seen in numerous places.

Looking over the huge arena from atop its 48m (157ft) height, it isn't difficult to imagine the show below as if it had happened only yesterday. True, the red brick arches are crumbling and the slaves and lions are long gone. But this popular Roman site remains alive with the ghosts of battles past and the many tourists in its present.

The seats are arranged in layers, almost all of which look out over the many levels of arch upon arch surrounding this vast expanse. Sitting in one, a visitor can almost hear the roar of the crowd as the Emperor's retinue enters through one of the four entrances used solely by them. The other 76 were for the average Roman citizen.

Opening in 80 AD after eight years of labor by 15,000 slaves and engineers, the Colosseum gained its now-common name from a 40m (130ft) nearby statue, the Colossus. Thought to have once had Nero's likeness, the statue displayed the face of a succession of Roman emperor's down the years. Evidence of the base of the bronze giant can still be seen between the Colosseum and the Temple of Roma and Venus not far away.

For 100 days after its debut, the arena was host to celebrations both noble and barbarian (to modern eyes). Fights to the death among enslaved gladiators, Roman versions of lion taming, considerably harsher than modern circus acts and many other displays of violence were common fare.

Seating was arranged by rank - the Emperor had a box near the base and women who were not part of the Royal party were relegated to the upper levels. But even from there it would not have been too difficult to see the results of the combat. Even from that height it would not have been to hard to see rhinos, hippos and elephants who were used in the 'shows' along with the more well-known lions and tigers.

The masts and velarium - a canopy covering part the large area to provide shade - have disappeared, long ago succumbing to the changes of the ages. But the immense columns and walls remain, ranging from Doric on the first story, to Ionic on the second, finishing with Corinthian on the third.

Visitors will marvel at the rest of the architecture, as well, that even today forms the basis of arenas around the world. It was one of the first, and certainly the largest and most well-known, to be free-standing. Most prior examples had been dug out of a hillside, of which many exist in and near Rome.

No visit to Rome is complete with a tour of the Colosseum.

Welcome to Barcelona - City of Catalonia

Barcelona is an ancient city, born of the Roman Empire. But like many great cities around the world, it flowered in the late Middle Ages and blossomed in the mid-19th century. Yet there are many exciting elements of the modern period there, as well. These periods are all evident in this northeastern Spanish city on the Mediterranean Sea coast.

Visitors can find a remnant of old Roman architecture here and there, in the form of part of an aqueduct in the Barri Gotic (Gothic Quarter) and some of the streets. But unlike Rome itself, most of the older buildings are from the time that give this area its name. The medieval years saw many of Barcelona's famed churches born, including the world famous La Seu.

The late 19th-early 20th century is alive and well in this artistic city, too, thanks to Antonio Gaudi and his patrons. Park Guell and the Sagrada Familia are two notable examples, but there are many others. The Casa Milà is still another. Even the lampposts outside the Pla de Palau show the distinctive touch of this unique artist.

But Gaudi has hardly been alone in forming the great buildings and monuments of Barcelona. The Arc de Triomf, built for the 1888 Universal Exhibition, is an outstanding example. Though not to well known as the Parisian structure of that name, it is no less a thing of beauty. The many sights of Cituadella Park, Montjuic, and other areas of the city provide still more samples of the great things to see here.

The whole range of art throughout these centuries is on display at MNAC (Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya). Here, visitors can find examples of objects from the Romanesque period (early 11th century) and continuing through the turn of the century, works drawn from all over Catalonia.

The modern era has hardly been neglected in Barcelona, either.

The Poble Espanyol, like many other famed structures in the city, was built for the 1929 International Exhibition. This collection of over 100 buildings was drawn from every style in Spain. Apart from seeing the whole range of Spanish residential architecture in a single location, visitors can shop, dine and dance to their hearts content.

For those after a fine combination of food and civic art a tourist could do no better than a visit to La Boqueria, the Mercat de Sant Josep, or St. Joseph's Market. Housed in a stellar 19th century structure, dozens of produce stalls offering every kind of native fruit and vegetable greet wanderers. Then when it's time for a rest, shoppers can sample one of the several superb tapas bars, such as Pinotxo.

Once refreshed, head out to the Barcelona Zoo or the Aquarium at Port Vell or to the top of Montjuic for an unforgettable view of the entire city of Barcelona. For, no matter where they go in this world-class city, visitors will be presented with some of the finest things to see and do anywhere in Europe.