The one and only, Casa Milà (La Pedrera)

In the ultra-fashionable neighborhood along Passeig de Gràcia stands one of the most unusual examples of Barcelona architecture - or anywhere else in the world: Casa Milà, otherwise known as La Pedrera.

The first name is drawn from the patron who commissioned renowned architect Antonio Gaudi to build what became an apartment complex.

The work began in 1906, sponsored by one of Barcelona's most wealthy citizens, Pedro Milà i Camps. Initially intended to have even more obvious religious themes, anti-clerical riots from the year before motivated the owner to require that Gaudi take a more subtle approach.

The results are anything but subtle in architectural terms, both outside and in. On its completion in 1910 the local wags were so stunned, affronted or otherwise surprised they dubbed it 'The Stone Quarry' (La Pedrera).

The name is unfair.

Casa Milà is different, to be sure. But it bears no resemblance to a stone quarry, which is all sharp angles. Gaudi's creation, by contrast, is a flowing series of curves that undulate while wrapping around the corner on which the building is placed. But the theme of organic shapes doesn't stop there.

The balconies that wind around the exterior of the site are full of sea shapes. They themselves are wavelike, while the structures and objects they support integrate the same look. Wrought iron railings that resemble seaweed (the work of sculptor Josep Jujol) surround minaret-like overheads of varying heights.

The top of the building itself houses chimneys that are an outstanding continuance of the same idea. Twisting like a soft-ice cream cone, the orange stone is shaped to provide a sense of both motion and aspiration - a common theme in much of Gaudi's work. They were nicknamed espantabruxes (witch-scarers) by one of the critics of the day.

The interior elements are well matched to the building's facade and overall shape. On the ground floor is a courtyard filled with recognizable Gaudi elements: organic shapes, bright colors and lush vegetation. Summer concerts and exhibits are often held there.

One of the apartments on the top floor has been furnished in furniture and objects from the period and provides a look at what the residents might have owned. The other units are still private residences.

Higher up inside the building in the attic is a small museum/exhibition space devoted to Gaudi's work called the Espai Gaudi (Gaudi Space). Here, visitors will find numerous educational displays and photos.

There is also an unusual upside-down model of Sagrada Familia demonstrating some of the architect's structural ideas. But the space itself is also a work of art. With a glowing orange atmosphere and a hush provided by the low, curved ceiling, no visit to Casa Milà would be complete without viewing the area.

But visitors will also want not to miss the excellent rooftop. It's a delightful series of gardens laid out in the only straight lines to be found at the site, set among the unusual chimneys. It also provides a spectacular view of sunny Barcelona in the sweeping vista below.

A Visit to Fiesole, Tuscany

It will come as no surprise that much of the Roman character of Tuscany has been preserved. One special example of that fact is to be found in Fiesole. A superb respite from busy Florence below, Fiesole offers views of the city, the Arno and much more from atop its peak.

The town itself far predates the Roman period, going back to the country's Etruscan era in the 9th century BC. From here, high on the hill, one can look out on modern Florence. But the distance is just great enough that it isn't hard to imagine life as it was those many centuries ago.

Conquered by the Romans in 283 BC, Fiesole soon became home to an outstanding school of the period. The city saw wars between Rome and the Vandals, as well, in the early 5th century AD. Its citizens fought many wars with Florence until succumbing to its more famous neighbor in 1125 AD.

Scattered around the town are reminders of all those events and many more.

The cathedral is a plain structure, but well worth a look for its orange brick and medieval tower. The Franciscan monastery is another site that may offer simple architecture, but is full of historical significance. In the Courtyard to Heaven, there is a quite interesting small column with a cross set between two short thin columns topped by a lintel.
Much grander is the nearby Medici Villa, built by the famous rulers in the mid-15th century. Or, one could visit the nearby Lombard tombs, a reminder of the time the site served as a necropolis. In addition, there are outstanding examples of Greek vases, amphorae and many other artifacts that would have been well known to citizens of the day.
But unquestionably, one of the most enticing sights for visitors is the Roman Theater, still in use today.

Built in the 1st century BC, it offers an amphitheater that seats 3,000 today just as it did 2,000 years ago. The right half is original, the left portion was rebuilt in the 19th century. Sitting among sections of column, broken friezes and other remnants of the period, it's easy to imagine hearing a performance from that bygone era.

A grove of olive trees decorates the center and there are baths with outstanding arches nearby. Sitting on the curved stone bleachers one can hear the strains of Vivaldi from the 18th century while being reminded of music from much further back.

Or, you may be fortunate enough to see one of the plays that are produced there. Nothing can compare to the experience of seeing an original Roman comedy by Terence or Plautus in a theater where patrons first heard its lines spoken.

A visit to Fiesole can last an hour, after winding up the steep curvy road, or occupy a full day or evening. Visitors who make the trip will be glad they did.

The Gothic Quarter in Barcelona

Between Las Ramblas and the Passeig de Picasso lies one of Barcelona's most famous areas: Barri Gotic, the Gothic Quarter. Its fame is well deserved. For, here, visitors can find streets and buildings from the Middle Ages that will provide hours of fascinating exploration. There are small winding alleyways where tourists can find all manner of Gothic-era buildings, shops housed in centuries-old structures, cafes and much more.

Arrayed around Placa de Sant Jaume Square are some of the most fascinating examples of medieval architecture in Europe. Just down the street is the Town Hall (l'Ajuntament), built in the 15th century. Next to it is the Parlament de Catalunya where the Catalan parliament holds its sessions. Facing it is the magnificent Palau de la Generalitat. Down Madoz, walkers can find the Palau Reial where a flea market is held on Sunday.

Walk along the Carrer del Bisbe Irurita and you'll come to the entrance of one of the most magnificent churches in Europe, the soaring cathedral, La Seu. This 14th century structure has been updated periodically since its founding and now sports a stellar 19th century faux-Gothic facade.

Lovers of religious architecture will not want to miss standing in the Placa de la Seu outside for a good view. After that, visitors can enjoy a fine Spanish coffee or tapas while they continue to explore the buildings and many ornaments from a comfortable seat.

Even the smaller churches are well worth a look. The Iglesia de Santa Maria del Pi is an example that continues to attract visitors by the score every summer. There are even small hotels to stay at in the area for those who want to make the Barri Gotic home base in Barcelona.

And there are sections that are still older. Barcelona is an ancient Roman city dating back 2,000 years. There are remnants of that beginning still extant in modern Barcelona. Roman walls, stone streets and other elements betray the leftover Roman influence of the ancient city of Barcino here. At the Casa de l'Ardiaca it is possible to see remnants of a Roman aqueduct.

Yet there are many modern sights to see as well in this area filled with historic buildings, enclaves and roads. The Els Quatre Gats is still in business, serving customers today as it once served Pablo Picasso. Not far away is the El Museo Picasso filled with the artist's works.

There are even examples of new architecture done in a much older style. The Bridge of Sighs hangs over one street between two buildings. Though built in the 1920s, it resembles its much older cousin in Venice from which it was copied. With its intricate stone railings and arches, it will provide architecture lovers with much to study.

Shoppers will find many worth while sights, too. There are shops galore along Carrer de Ferran. They're filled with bargains that any tourist will want to explore. Lace, handcrafts, clothing and much more adorn walls that have seen many generations come and go.

In the public square those who enjoy street performers can find an outstanding example in the weekly Sardana Dance performances given here. After applauding and donating a euro, wander over to one of the many cafes and have a cool cerveza. Later in the evening explore the numerous nightclubs dotting the Barri Gotic.

In Barcelona, old and new get along quite nicely.

Check out the Vatican Museums

An entire article could easily be taken up solely by listing the names of all the galleries and museums comprising the Vatican Museums. Naming the artists and their works would take up several more. Describing them takes entire catalogs, held in the Vatican Library.

Growing from humble beginnings with Pope Julius II's 1506 acquisition of the sculpture of Laocoön and his sons in the grips of a sea serpent, it now numbers dozens of individual galleries and thousands of works of art.

The Etruscan Museum, founded in 1837 is one of the later additions, holding many excavated samples of ancient works unearthed in southern Etruria and elsewhere. It is nearby the mosaics and ancient sarcophagi from the glory days of the Roman Empire held in the Egyptian Museum, which it resembles.

There is the Gallery of Tapestries, a collection of wall coverings from the 15th through the 17th centuries. First exhibited in 1814 these extraordinary weaves would be welcomed in any of the major museums of the world.

Nearby is the Gallery of the Maps, named after its painted walls. Forty different panels devoted to varying regions around the globe form a collection that was once as practical as it is beautiful. Before Global Positioning Systems and other modern technology, these maps were among the prime means for locating and tracking the Church's far-flung spheres of influence.

Among the highlights of the Vatican Museums are the Raphael Rooms. A series of four connecting rooms, built between 1447 and 1455, these house many of the works of that Renaissance master. The rooms, ironically however, are not named for holding his paintings, but because of his work decorating them over a ten year period.

The plainly named Vatican Picture Gallery holds works that belie the room's designation. Here are works of many masters, including Giotto, Perugino, van Dyck and Poussin.

Visitors may be disappointed if they visit the Gregorian Museum of Profane Art looking for early samples of pornography. The word was simply used to distinguish subject matter that was not sacred in theme. Opened only in 1970, here are Roman sculptures of the Republican and Imperial periods, sarcophagi and much else.

The Carriage Pavilion was opened even later, in 1973, in a building constructed under the Square Garden. It houses the carriages used to transport various Popes and other officials of the church. The main objects are supplemented with photographs of processions, harnesses, documents and other related items.

Of course, the centerpiece of the Vatican Museums is unquestionably the world-famous Sistine Chapel, in particular its 10,000 square foot ceiling painted by Michaelangelo. The chapel holds many works by Italian masters, not least of which is the master's Last Judgment completed twenty years after the ceiling.

Still, it is the ceiling that commands attention. Nine panels display figures from the Bible, Sibyls, Noah, random male nudes and Jehovah bringing Adam to life with a touch. Goethe said it best when he stated:

"Without having seen the Sistine Chapel one can form no appreciable idea of what one man is capable of achieving."

The same might be said of many of the masters whose work is housed in the Vatican Museums.

The Fountains of The Eternal City of Rome

The fountains of Rome have an ancient and glorious history. Examples range from the Eternal City's glory days in the 1st century AD to its even more glorious days during the Renaissance to the 18th century and beyond.

Other cities offer fountains that are barely beyond the utilitarian. But not Rome. Rome must have a water display that is a work of art, because Rome is itself one enormous museum.

The Trevi is unquestionably the most famous, but it has many competitors for the attention of Rome's many visitors.

Fontana del Tritone

The Fountain of Triton (Fontana del Tritone) is just one stellar example. Designed by the renowned Bernini in 1642, it is a masterpiece in the Baroque style. The central figure is a merman (the male equivalent of a mermaid), seated on a giant clamshell and flanked by dolphins.

Near the Spanish Steps is another Bernini work, his first in the genre. Displaying a half-sunken ship, the Barcaccia was a progenitor of the Baroque style in outdoor sculpture.

There is the Fountain of the Moor (Fontana del Moro), also by Bernini, yet another example of a sea-oriented theme. Sited at the southern tip of the Piazza Navona - itself worth a visit - the fountain depicts Neptune surrounded by his subjects. Four Tritons expel water as sea creatures frolic below.

The Fountain of Neptune adjacent to The Moor was a 19th century addition that features many of the same elements, but in a vastly different style.

One not by Bernini, but clearly influenced by his style, is the Fontana dei Tritoni by Francesco Bizzaccheri located in the Boario Forum in front of the Church of St. Maria. Set between the Temple of Male Fortune and the Temple of Vesta, it was built in 1715 at the dawn of the Age of Reason. Two powerful Tritons kneel on a large outcropping of rock and support a basin from which the fountain's water shoots.

Fontana di Trevi

But without a doubt the Fontana di Trevi, the Trevi Fountain, is the foremost example of the genre in Rome. Originally built in the 1st century AD, it was re-built between 1732 and 1751 at the orders of Pope Clement XII.

At 85 feet (26m) high and 65 feet wide (20m) it is the largest fountain in the city, and among the most beautiful. Sited at the rear of the Palace of the Dukes of Poli, it displays a familiar subject: Neptune, but this time riding a clamshell chariot behind two horses, amid Tritons and flanked by the gods of Health and Wealth.

It is here at the Trevi that hopeful tourists toss coins into the base, prompted by the legend that those who throw three coins into the water will one day return to Rome. The coins represent a healthy sum for the city's charities. Clever marketing was not unknown even in centuries past.

Nicola Salvi is often credited as the designer, but there are elements that suggest Bernini had a hand in its creation. The water source is from the Aqua Vergine aqueduct, the name of a legend depicted in the fountain itself. A virgin is said to have offered water to thirsty Roman soldiers.

No visit to Rome could be considered complete without seeing at least a few of its many famed fountains, outdoor sculpture at its finest.

Barcelona - La Boqueria

La Boqueria, Mercat de Sant Josep, St. Joseph's Market.... Whatever name you use to describe it the sights and smells will be the same. This bustling conglomeration of food stalls, restaurants and tapas bars is one of Barcelona's most often visited attractions. That last fact is all the more interesting since relatively few tourists seek fresh produce on their wanderings. But here one can find that and a great deal more.

Set in a structure built in 1840 La Boqueria is an artistic treasure as well as a culinary one. The sign itself above the entrance, a fine Catalonian example of Art Nouveau, is well worth a look. The glass and iron enclosure comprises (and partially hides) a 19th century building that shares much with its cousins throughout the city. Aspects of the market are still being re-discovered. Several Ionic-style columns were only uncovered in 2001 after a long absence.

But the art on display resides as much in what is sold there as where it is sold. The endless palette of colors formed by artichokes, oranges, carrots, ham and fish of all description requires a photograph (or, better still, a visit) to truly convey. If you're looking for an afternoon snack, a drink or just a fascinating look at the best market in Europe, you could find none finer.

Anyone wanting to wander through La Boqueria has a number of options. Seen from above it would resemble a hub with spokes.
At the center are the fish sellers who offer an array of local species so fresh some of them are still wiggling. Barcelona is on the coast of the Mediterranean Sea. Wander in any direction and you'll run into mushroom stalls offering some of the world's finest truffles. Move one way and you'll see the juiciest cherries to be found anywhere on the continent. Stroll the other way and you'll come upon zucchini so fresh the blossoms are still attached.

Set around the perimeter are a number of great bars and restaurants. The Pinotxo (Pinocchio) is famed for its wide selection of drinks, its excellent tapas and its extraordinary collection of bar stools. Don't miss seeing the ceramic portrait of the famed marionette character displayed there.

The El Quim de la Boqueria is another superb option. In a city full of outstanding tapas bars, El Quim stands near the pinnacle. The bar is full of great food, lively customers and sports a happy atmosphere. Locals often enjoy the fresh squid for breakfast.

The exterior of the market provides several interesting sights as well. Just outside the entrance are animal stalls that sell birds, lizards and other small pets.

La Boqueria is about halfway between Carrer del Carme and Carrer de l'Hospital, close to the Liceu metro stop. It's not far from the famed cathedral, La Seu, in the center of Barri Gotic (the Gothic Quarter). St. Joseph's Market is open from early in the morning until late in the evening, but the liveliest times are in the afternoon.

A Visit to San Gimignano in Tuscany

Once an ancient Etruscan settlement, San Gimignano's first walls were erected much later, in 998 AD. It became one of Italy's smaller city-statues in the 12th century.

Featured in fictional form in E.M Forster's 1905 novel Where Angels Fear to Tread, this Tuscany town provides the perfect backdrop for a modern visit as well. Situated roughly halfway between Florence and Siena, San Gimignano is the perfect place to stop and see some sights, not least of which are the famed towers.

Many of the medieval towers that dot the landscape throughout this region have been lost to wars, construction projects and other changes. Here, they form the centerpiece of one of Tuscany's most unusual offerings. Fourteen remain from the 72 originally commissioned and each one is a unique work of art.

The Communal Palace is another of San Gimignano's outstanding offerings. Home of the Town Gallery it houses works by Filippino Lippi, Pier Francesco Fiorentino and others. From Dante's Hall it's a short walk to the fresco by Lippo Memmi. Not much further is the Torre del Podestà, a full 54 meters (177 feet) high.
There is a small Archaeological Museum featuring a variety of fascinating objects. Artifacts housed here display the full history of the town from its Etruscan origins through the Roman period and up to the Medieval period that gave the town its current appearance.

The Sacred Art Museum houses art and artifacts from many of the regions's churches and includes paintings, silverware, terracotta and many fine funeral monuments.

There's even a small collection of modern and contemporary art on view at the Gallery Raffaele De Grada. Drawing from recent decades, it houses many of the current art works important to the town. It also organizes art events throughout the year.

From the center of town walkers have easy access to the four main public squares: Piazza delle Erbe, Piazza Pecori, Piazza della Cisterna and Piazza del Duomo where the Collegiata is located. Any direction you care to go, you're sure to see something of interest.

Head to the outskirts and you'll find one of the best views of the many towers. With binoculars it's easy to spot many of the fine details, while from a vantage point on one of the many hills you can take in the breathtaking view. It's no accident that many professional photos of Tuscany are taken from this area.

A little farther out lie some of the area's best wineries. The white Vernaccia di San Gimignano is grown here. At different times of the year, usually in the summer, it's possible to sample some of the excellent vintage.

Though not the most well known location among those seeking a tour of Tuscany, San Gimignano is not only a convenient rest stop, but provides outstanding things to see and do all its own.

Poble Espanyol (The Spanish Village)

One of the most popular shopping areas of Barcelona, the Poble Espanyol is an array of houses, shops and other buildings done in every style seen across Spain. Enter through the gateway simulated to look like the great walled city of Avila and experience the many sights within.

Built in 1929 as part of the International Exhibit, it provides delightful crafts and entertainment, while giving a view of the many architectural styles around the country. Many of them are careful replicas of existing buildings from around Spain. There are over 100 different styles represented from Galicia, Castille, Basque and the many other regions of this diverse country.

In the interior is a large square, the Plaza Mayor, featuring the Utebo Clock Tower. Connected to it are smaller squares with a town hall, a church, a faux monastery and homes.

While you're seeing the interesting architecture you can be entertained by street performers and artists. Purchase handcrafted jewelry or just sit and sip a cool drink outside the Tablao de Carmen. There are over 40 workshops here featuring ceramics, embroidery and other handcrafts.

Art of many kinds can be seen throughout the poble. At the Fundació Fran Daurel, you can find works by contemporary Catalan artists along with their more famous colleagues from the past. The building houses art by Picasso, Dali and many others. Lesser known (outside Spain), but still important artists like Barceló and Tàpies are represented, too.

Music is an ever-present feature of the 'village' with roving guitarists and horn players providing a festive atmosphere for shoppers. Wander along the boulevard and see pottery made before your eyes. Just next door is the glass blower who will fascinate you with his skill.
At night the village really comes alive.

Many of the shops remain open until 9 p.m. and offer engravings, handmade puppets, masks, leather, traditional woven baskets, musical instruments and much more.

There are dozens of bars, clubs and restaurants. Dancing is popular here with both tourists and locals alike. There's an open-air discotheque called La Terrazza that attracts visitors and Barcelonans equally.

But perhaps you want a more sedate experience? If you prefer to watch rather than participate, attend the famed flamenco performances. One of the best is found at the Tablao de Carmen. Here, visitors can see the finest in Spanish dance performed by world-class performers.

The village was only intended to last until six months after the 1929 exhibition, after which it was scheduled to be demolished. But the area proved so popular it has lasted to the day, receiving a major renovation in 1988. Come see why.

Poble Espanyol is easy to find. Just take the metro to Placa Espanya, then ride the escalators to the village.

Barcelona Zoo

Barcelona Zoo receives over a million visitors per year. It isn't hard to see why, once you know about all the things it has to offer animal lovers. Built in 1892 these 13 hectares located in Ciutadella Park house thousands of animals from 400 different species, many of whom are not typically found at other conservation facilities.

There are programs that stock and protect the Gila Monster (Heloderma suspectum). This large lizard is a favorite of kids and adults alike. You can safely view up close this creature that has changed little from prehistoric times. Not far behind on the time scale is the Giant Anteater (Myrmecophaga trydactyla), a rare species at zoos. The Pygmy Hippopotamus (Choeropsis liberiensis) is another unusual animal that visitors won't see even at many larger facilities.

The zoo also hosts a number of Black Vultures, a Mhorr's Gazelle and Rothschild's Giraffes. In addition to these well-known names, Barcelona zoo is home to species that are rarely seen elsewhere, such as the Greater Kudu, Siamangs (an arboreal gibbon) and several Mangabeys (a type of Old World monkey).

The zoo is home to a number of interesting bird species to delight visitors, including night herons, egrets and storks. But other species get a fair showing, as well, such as the Majorcan midwife toad from the Tramuntana Mountains. There is a snake house that kids will stare into for hours on end.

There's no shortage of the kind of animals that zoo lovers often travel far to seek out. Barcelona offers several Eurasian Otters, which are part of the zoo's active return-to-the-wild program. They have a Red Panda that is a great favorite among zoo-goers of all ages. And the pack of Iberian wolves, native to Spain, continues to attract thousands of onlookers every year.

The zoo provides refuge to several lowland gorillas, too. Not least of those was the famous Snowflake, a quasi-albino gorilla, a resident for 30 years. Snowflake was not a true albino, since his eyes were blue, not pink. But his fur was completely white, the only known example of this variation. Snowflake died in 2003, but several of his progeny are housed at the zoo and there is a large exhibit showing many videos of this fascinating animal.

The zoo has another unusual feature: dolphins. Aquatic animals don't often make their way into zoos, generally being reserved for aquaria. Barcelona has one of those, as well. But there are several different species housed here, including Bottlenose Dolphins. They even play host to a killer whale, practically an unprecedented species to find at a zoo.

Along with the dolphins and killer whale, the zoo holds several semi-aquatic creatures: Humboldt Penguins. These delightfully zany creatures fly underwater using their flippers as wings, just as birds do through the much thinner fluid we call air. But the method in each case is much the same and as much fun to watch in the case of the penguins.

The zoo is easy to reach. Just take the metro to Ciutadella. The zoo is a short walk away. When finished, take in some of the many other sights offered by the Ciutadella Park.

Cortona, a town in Tuscany

Cortona is a Tuscan town once little known to travelers booking for Florence. After the publication of Under the Tuscan Sun (and the subsequent film and follow-up books) it garnered a place on every visitor's agenda. Justifiably so.

In this Italian hilltop town of 30,000 there are more sights than a visitor could see in three vacations. Located about half-way between its much more famous neighbors of Rome and Florence this ancient city offers museums, restaurants, villas, biking tours and much more.

The founding date is unknown, but Cortona's streets were walled in by the Etruscans more than 2,600 years ago. Some of that history is still extant near the Porta Guelfa and the Porta Montanina. At the base one can spot Roman repairs made to Etruscan slabs.

Inside, looking out above the walls, visitors will find a breathtaking view of Lake Trasimeno from the square of Piazza Garibaldi. Just past the church is an entrance to a park. The fountain in the center features two bronze dolphins that will reward the effort of the short walk. Just left is an amphitheater that offers a lovely place to sit and see part of beautiful Tuscany.

The Piazza Grande, featuring the Town Hall that dates from the 6th century, is another must-visit location. If your visit to Cortona falls on the first Saturday of the month, be sure to take in the Market. Food, small artifacts and many more interesting items are offered for sale. In nearby Casali Palace there's a National Market of Ancient Furniture held in the Piazza Grande during the last two weeks of August.

From there one can also almost see the ancient burial grounds of Cetona Belvedere. Full of grottoes and caverns to explore, they're one of the many delightful excursions offered. One can also get a clear view of the tallest peak of the local mountain range. Down from the top is located another town worthy of a visit, Montepulciano.

Another worthy short trip entails a visit to the Great Cloister of the Monastero Di Monte Oliveto Maggiore. Built in 1443, tourists will want to see the frescoes depicting the life of Saint Benedict by Signorelli, painted near the end of the 15th century.

Those interested in religious architecture will also not want to miss viewing the church of Santa Maria del Calcinaio, built in 1485. This Renaissance structure is octagonal, an unusual choice for the period.

Another unusual sight within the city walls visitors can take in is the Torre del Pulcinella, a large public clock. It announces the hours by a different technique. Its chimes are a pair of clanging cymbals, rather than a bell.

Not far away is the Museo dell'Academia Etrusca. Despite the name the museum covers not just Etruscan art, but everything from ancient Egyptian artifacts to paintings of the 15th century. Also on display are books, period furniture and sculpture.

By contrast, the Museo Diocesano offers a more focused exhibit. This includes the Cortona Altarpiece from 1432 along with six predella. Predella, in painting, are small paintings that run along a frame at the bottom of an altarpiece.

However long you have, an hour or a day, or even a week, time in Cortona is well spent.

The Seine River in Paris

Whether seen by a long, leisurely walk or from one of the many excellent tour boats, the view along the Seine in Paris is a delight.

The river flows nearly 800km (480mi) from Dijon through Paris and into the English Channel. But even the short section through the city provides enough sights to satisfy the most discerning traveler.

La Tour Eiffel can be seen changing shades from cocoa to gold as dusk fades to dark. The lights along its four pillars melding into the spire are only one of the many sights not to be missed.

Joining the left and right banks (the 'rive gauche' and the 'rive droit') along this ancient river are bridges themselves no stranger to time.

The oldest extant is Pont Neuf, ironically called 'the new bridge', whose first stone was laid by Henry III in 1578. Continued during the reign of his successor Henry IV in 1598, the construction was an enormous undertaking for the time. Finally completed in 1607, the bridge itself is, in a sense, older than France. At the time, the country was still split into fairly independent regions, such as Burgundy, Champagne and Normandy.

One of its newer cousins is the Pont d'Austerlitz constructed from 1854 to 1885. Comprised of five cast iron arches with a span of 32m (105ft), it rests on four piers and two stone abutments. (Abutments are the supports for the ends of a bridge.) The bridge has been widened twice from its original 13m (43ft) to the present 30m (98ft).

But not only youth and age are represented along these shores. Elegant beauty, in the form of the Alexander III, is also here. Opened in 1900, the bridge connects the Grand Palais on the right bank to the Invalides on the left. With pillars decorated by a gilded bronze Pegasus and large lampposts encircled by cherubs and nymphs, the Alexander III is among Paris' most artistic public works.

The many tour boats provide another way to see the sights. Some are small, others larger, but they all offer a relaxed way to see the bridges and parts of Paris from another point of view.

The visitor can enjoy a glass of wine as the lights come on along the Montparnasse. The larger boats even offer lunch or dinner. From the uncovered flat boats tours are given in English and French. Several glide as far as past the Eiffel Tower and back past Notre Dame to Quai Henri IV.

Accessible from the center of the Pont Neuf, just walk down to the tip of the island, to Square du Vert Galant.

Once you've completed the boat tour, don't forget about the other attractions. From the exit it's just a short walk to many other things to do and see.

Just down the bank is one of the finest art museums in the world, the Musée d'Orsay. And there are several small galleries and shops along the way. Be sure to walk down the stone steps to the river itself and see the bridges from underneath as well.

Enchanté!

Domus Aurea: The Golden House of Nero in Rome

One of the more recent attractions in Rome is actually one of the more ancient. The Golden House of Nero, what remains of it, has been excavated and the ruins are now available for public viewing. Though re-discovered during the Renaissance, they were the subject of a massive restoration project near the end of the 20th century.

Constructed in 64 AD after the devastating fire that burned two-thirds of Rome (at which legend has it Nero fiddled), the Golden House is an archaeological treasure trove. At one time many parts were covered with gold foil and the ceiling festooned with ivory and jewels by the extravagant emperor. Alas, these are not on display. They were stripped from the palace shortly after Nero's death.

The original palace and related structures covered 350 acres that included a man-made lake, vineyards and the house itself. Terming the villa a house, however, is misleading. It contained 300 rooms, but is thought to have had no sleeping quarters. None that were intentional, at least. No doubt many passed out where they were during the parties for which Nero was famed.

It was the original site of the huge statue Nero had made, bearing his own likeness of course, that was later relocated to outside the Colosseum. The bronze base of the 40m/130ft statue can still be seen there.

Though much has been destroyed over the centuries, there still remains enough to satisfy anyone looking to spend an interesting hour or two tour in a cool place. That's always welcome in Rome, where the temperature can be in the mid-80s even in late October.

The underground, audio-guided tour offers enormous, fresco-covered vaults and many rooms to explore. The frescoes painted by Fabullus, a noted artist of the period were executed in a style popular in Pompeii, the doomed city not far from Rome.

The Renaissance artist Raphael used them as models for some of his own work, and many Renaissance artists - including Michaelangelo - went to visit the (then) newly discovered palace frescoes. Both artists left their signatures scratched in the walls, to be later joined by such luminaries as Casanova and the Marquis de Sade.

The tour shows a wide variety - some areas are shadowed ruins with barely visible carvings. Others are fully restored golden and marble walls with largely intact paintings and fireplaces.

Grottos abound in the underground area, but the most impressive portion is unquestionably the Octagon Room. Here Nero, a great fan of Greek art, housed a statue of the Dying Gaul, which can now be seen in the Pallazo Altemps museum.

Outside, there are gardens and a reconstruction of the octagonal room that allow the visitor to clearly imagine what living there must have been like.

The Eiffel Tower in Paris, quite simply the most romantic location on earth...

Originally intended as a structure to commemorate the French Revolution, who could've guessed that 100 years later The Eiffel Tower would become the symbol of Paris itself?

But, judging by the six million annual visitors and the millions of photographs, that's what it has become. To date the tower has received over 200 million visitors since its completion in 1889.

For two years, three hundred workers joined over 18,000 pieces of structural iron to form the tower's three distinct levels. Those levels currently house over 1,500 steps. The number has varied over the years with different renovations. But the visitor can be grateful not to have to climb the 300 meter (984 ft) tower, thanks to the many elevators. The uppermost portion supports a 24m (79ft) spire.

By far the tallest structure in Paris, the tip may bend away from the vertical by as much as 18cm (7in) due to expansion of its 7,300 metric tons of iron. Warming by the sun heats one side more than the other.

That's all the more remarkable since wind shear is usually the major problem with tall structures. But, the engineering is so well-thought out that the strongest winds cause no more than five inches of deflection.

Every seven years the entire structure is re-painted (using 50 tons of paint) to prevent rusting. Visitors can vote on the next color to be used by means of a computer housed in the tower.

Among many remarkable statistics about the tower is its history as the world's tallest structure until being overtaken by the Chrysler Building in 1930. Quite a long reign considering there were widespread petitions to have it torn down by some who considered it ugly and intrusive.

That might have succeeded if it hadn't been in use as an antenna for the then-leading-edge technology of telegraphy. More than just decorative, the tower has been used as part of a communications system almost from the start. In 1909 a permanent underground radio center was built and since 1957 it's been used as a transmission tower for both FM radio and television.

The tower has even been part of scientific research. In 1910, Wulf used it to make measurements that resulted in the discovery of cosmic rays.

But in typical Gallic fashion the practical use exists side-by-side with the aesthetic. The tower holds two restaurants: Altitude 95 on the first level, and the Jules Verne on the second. The latter has earned one star in the Michelin Guide and is accessible via a private elevator.

Apart from appearing in millions of photographs and thousands of television commercials, it has been used more directly as an advertising vehicle. From 1925 to 1934 the tower supported billboards for the automaker Citroen.

But the tourist needs no commercial to motivate a visit. The view from the observation platform, especially at dusk, more than exceeds any expectations set by ads. All of Paris twinkles below as the city is illuminated by both the onset of electric lights and the fading sun.

To visit the tower, take the Metro - the Paris subway - to the Trocadero station. Then, walk from the Palais de Chaillot to the Seine.

Las Ramblas in Barcelona

Once exclusively a flower market, the bustling Las Ramblas area of Barcelona is the perfect place for shopping and people watching. Once lined with convents and churches, the streets are now thronged with performers, magazine vendors and a hundred other things. The convents and monasteries were all closed by 1830.

There are no cars allowed in the central sections. They are constrained to two small one-way streets on either side of the pedestrian areas. So, you can walk at your leisure among the many things to see and do.

Meander along from the Placa Catalunya, past the famed statue of Columbus, to the water's edge. There are many paths to choose from. The Rambla dels Ocells (Avenue of the birds) is aptly named for the once popular bird market in this old part of the Spanish city. The Rambla de les Flors once held the only flower shops in the city. Along the Rambla dels Caputxins there are old buildings, kiosks full of books and interesting people galore.

You'll pass by the opera house of Liceu Theatre situated at the midpoint of the Ramblas. Along the way, stop and see the Miró Mosaic. This circular tile created by the Spanish artist attracts thousands to the area every year. You'll also pass the outside of the famed produce market, Mercat de la Boqueria. Rest a while at the Cafe de la Opera and enjoy a bracing cup of coffee, Barcelona style.

There's no longer any need to avoid the Barri del Raval, once the red-light district of the city. If you hit the area in the evening, you'll find dozens of small restaurants and bars to choose from that will delight any tourist.

Art lovers should be sure to walk along Carrer de Montalegre where the Centre de Cultura Contemporània de Barcelona is located. It houses the restored Museu d'Art Contemporani, which holds many permanent and roving exhibitions.

The Barri Gotic, the Gothic section, contains many architectural wonders to explore, including the famed cathedral, La Seu. It stands in the center of the original city and forms part of Barcelona's two thousand year history. Nearby is the church of Santa Maria del Mar, which offers a representative example of Catalonian Gothic architecture.

Music lovers will want to catch one of the many afternoon concerts at Sant Josep Oriol. They're a little more organized than the random street performers. But the latter are often just as professional, so sample both.

Now head for shopping at nearby Portal de l'Àngel and Portaferrissa. Along the central boulevard are hundreds of clothing shops, antique stores and more. Most everyone will want to head for the El Cortes Ingles in Placa Catalunya Square at the northern end. This seven-story department store is the rival of Harrod's in London, Macy's in New York and the other great shopping meccas of the world.

You could spend your entire vacation, not to mention your entire bank account, in the Las Ramblas of Barcelona. And that would be a great choice!

Montmartre of Paris!

Montmartre is a fascinating mixture of old and new, seedy and sacred, bizarre and blasé. Within this section of Paris, technically the 18th arrondissement, there is everything from Moulin Rouge and Musée d'Erotisme to the Sacré Coeur Basilica. There are several art shops, a Dali museum and even a winery.

(Note: An 'arrondissement' is a district, laid out around Paris clockwise, with the 1st at the center of the clock face.)

There are steep hills in parts, so be prepared for a hike, particularly up to the Basilica. But there are cobblestoned streets, too, with antique shops and 'bistros'.

The word 'bistro' comes from the Russian meaning 'quick'. It was first imported in the early 19th century by Cossack occupiers who wanted to be fed immediately. Everything from frogs legs to Tarte Tatin is served at spots as old as 1793 in the Place du Tertre.

At the Espace Montmartre one can view an original Dali etching and browse to the glares of the staff. The museum houses Dali sculpture, lithographs, drawings and even some furniture pieces.

For a different art experience visit the Musée de Montmartre. This 17th century house holds apartments once occupied by Renoir, Utrillo and other famous names. Renoir's Galette, sold at auction in 1990 for $78 million, was finished here. Among other works, there are several original Toulouse-Lautrec posters on display.

And while you're thinking of Lautrec, don't forget to visit (at least the outside of) Moulin Rouge. Very pricey ($100 or more), with a floor show garnering mixed reviews, the windmill on the exterior is a photo-op not to be bypassed.

About 20 minutes walk from the Sacré Coeur Basilica, there are several other nightclubs in the area, as well. Beware the Pigalle neighborhood, though. It constitutes one of the seedier areas around.

By contrast, the Montmartre cemetery located in the eastern part of the district, is a pleasant park nearby. Tree-lined and festooned with flowers and dotted with benches, there are tombs and mausoleums galore.

And if you visit in mid-October you might even be able to catch the Grape Festival not far away. Hosting the only vineyard in Paris, Clos Montmartre (at 12 Rue Cortot) was planted in 1933 and has 2,000 vines under cultivation. Most varieties grown in France are represented and the wine lover won't be disappointed.

For those who like a hike, start at the Abbesses Metro. Take a few minutes to enjoy the Art Nouveau awning and the mosaics around the door of the Eglise St Jean l'Evangéliste.

While you're nearby, visit the crypt in the Chappelle du Martyre (at 9 Rue Yvonne-Le-Tac). The first Bishop of Paris, St Denys, is laid to rest here at the site where Loyala, the founder of the Jesuits, took his vows. (Open only on Friday.)

Most will want to finish their visit with a trip to the Sacré Coeur Basilica at the top of the hill. Whether standing on the white steps or up in the dome, the views are spectacular. Go early to avoid the crowds and the heat.

Montmartre is accessible via several metro (subway) lines. M12 (Lamarck-Caulaincourt) or M4 (Chateau-Rouge), Blanche station, etc. Anything which leads to the 18th arrondissement.

Barcelona, the city of Gaudi architecture

The architect Antonio Gaudi (1852-1926) didn't create Barcelona. The city is over 2,000 years old and the famed artist was active around the end of the 19th century. But much that is worthy in this Spanish city is the result of his efforts. Just a list of the works he created that are still extant here would fill pages. To describe them would take volumes.

Unquestionably the most well known of his buildings in Barcelona is the Sagrada Familia, otherwise known as the Temple of the Holy Family. The structure almost defies description. Part neo-Gothic, part neo-Baroque it is sui generis. A series of spires topping a church begun in 1883, it is still under construction.

The Park Guell on nearby Montjuic, completed in 1914, is one of the architect's civil engineering projects. It is a 20-hectare expanse filled with lush greenery and art objects that visitors to Central Park in New York would envy. Whether it's the outstanding lizard sculpture or the famed enormous wavy bench, or just a touch of mosaic tile here and there, the distinctive Gaudi look is clearly evident.

Another structure almost as well known and as often visited is the Casa Milà, or La Pedrera (The Stone Quarry). Originally designed as a private home, it quickly evolved into a set of individual apartments. The organic, undulating balconies give the facade its unique look from the street, but the organic Gaudi elements are everywhere in and on the structure. From the ice-cream cone-shaped chimneys to the seaweed-style wrought iron to the hushed, glowing attic, the building is Gaudi throughout.

Several other structures of the man regarded as the Father of Spanish Art Nouveau demonstrate his worthiness to that title.

Casa Batllo, erected in 1907, is one of the many Gaudi buildings on the UNESCO World Heritage list of worthy treasures that prove the point. As in the Casa Milà, the architect's unusual style is readily visible. The balconies that almost resemble sections of skull around the eye sockets combine with a colorful mosaic-like facade that seems to be melting. The curved chimney complex set in front of an orange clamshell roofline is yet more proof of his unique style.

Gaudi employed organic shapes everywhere, but always adapted them to his own purposes, just as the better known Frank Lloyd Wright always did. That is clear in the Colonia Guell chapel. The unique arches bear the stamp of this unusual artist. Festooned with organic carvings, the arches themselves are sharp angled, yet blend seamlessly into a main structure that appears almost cavelike.

In a city full of outstanding architecture, Gaudi's work continues to be frequently visited by locals and tourists alike. A single glance at any of his buildings makes it easy to see why.

The Uffizi Gallery in Florence

It's rare for an art museum to have too many masterpieces to display. That happy fate befell the Uffizi Gallery in Florence when the last of the Medici, Electress Anna Maria, willed the entire family collection to the gallery in 1743. The results, collected over several centuries, provide a view of one of the finest treasure troves of art anywhere in the world.

The Uffizi occupies a building originally intended as office space for the Grand Duke Cosimo I (1519-1574). 'Uffizi' in Italian means 'office'. The gallery itself was completed in 1581 from a design by Vasari, under the sponsorship of Cosimo's son, Francisco. Gradually, the Medici transferred more and more works here, creating the world's first public art museum in 1591.

Many art museums start with a small, sometimes outstanding, collection of privately collected works. Here, as with everything they did the Medici - rulers of Florence off and on for generations - packed them in by the cartload.

Works are presented in chronological order, giving viewers the opportunity to see the whole panoply of Renaissance art in the manner it developed. That display constitutes not just an education but an experience of a lifetime.

Among the works here are the famed Venus by Botticelli. The Ognissanti Madonna by the late Gothic master, Giotto, is on display. It is kept company by The Madonna and Child with Two Angles, by Lippi, along with hundreds more equally great works. Raphael's Madonna of the Goldfinch resides not far from a Bacchus by Caravaggio.

One wall holds the Venus of Urbino by Titian. Another displays the Baptism of the Christ by del Verrocchio. Michelangelo's Doni Tondo is one of the lesser works in this superb collection. Da Vinci's Annunciation is just down the corridor. The famed Mannerist painting, The Madonna of the Long Neck by Parmigianino resides in the Uffizi.

Outstanding as that portion of the collection undoubtedly is, there is much more to the Uffizi than Italian Renaissance works of the masters.

Rembrandt's Self-Portrait as an Old Man is one example. The Adoration of the Magi by the great German master, Albrecht Dürer is yet another. El Greco, Goya and Velasquez are all well represented.

Many later works are on display, too, including over 250 self-portraits one of which is of Chagall who handed his to the curator personally. Works by Ingres, Delacroix and Rubens can be seen in the narrow corridors. The museum also holds almost 1,400 miniatures, second only to the collection in the Victoria and Albert Museum in London.

The Uffizi remains one of Florence's most popular attractions. In a city full of outstanding art, both indoor and out, that is quite an achievement. When so many outstanding artists are represented in one collection visitors will be offered more than can be seen in one afternoon. To view the collection, then, and actually see it, will take some planning. During the summer it can take several hours to get in without a reservation. Therefore, booking well in advance is vital.

But the small effort will be richly rewarded. Nowhere else in the world is there quite this comprehensive display of so many fine works.

A visit to Maison de Victor Hugo in Paris...

'Maison' is French for 'house'. In this case the word is slightly misleading. While no palace, though sited in the Place des Vosges - originally known as Place Royale - the site is no simple domicile. These sprawling apartments were the home of the famed writer between 1832 and 1848. Hugo fled from the revolution in that year.

Hugo was the author of such well-known (if less widely read) works such as Les Misérables and The Hunchback of Notre Dame. He also penned lesser known, but far superior works, such as Ninety-Three and The Man Who Laughs.

A treat even for those with only a passing interest in literature, the Victor Hugo museum is chock full of drawings, mementos, 19th century furniture and more. The Chinese salon from Hugo's house on Guernsey has been relocated here, as well.

The square outside the house is a delightful beginning. Lined with brick houses, arcades and a garden, it's easy to imagine the author approaching along cobblestoned streets.

As he neared, he would have seen (as visitors can today) a large red and white brick facade atop several large arches. The top of the house displays classical Greek ornamentation typical of the period.

Inside, along with first editions of the writer's works, is a painting of his funeral procession at the Arc de Triomphe. At the time of his death his fame and popularity were so great that millions came to mourn his passing.

There are also portraits of his family. Alongside are drawings and documents showing the life story of Hugo and the many artists he knew as friends. Balzac and Dumas, Paganini and Liszt, Musset and many more dined here. Even Dickens and the Duke of Orleans paid visits.

Inaugurated as a museum in 1903, several years after the author's death, the layout is not exactly as it was during his lifetime. Much of the furniture was auctioned off in 1852.

Nevertheless, the second floor apartment bears a great resemblance to what it was then. It is easy to imagine the great writer at his desk, where his inkwell and handwriting samples can still be seen. Here he wrote several of his masterpieces, including Ruy Blas and Songs of the Twilight.

The rooms also house works displaying the author's lesser known talents, such as original drawings and photographs. There are even items of furniture designed by Hugo, who learned the craft working in the theater.

Exiting down the creaking staircase and out again to the Place des Vosges, be sure to have a croissant on a bench and take your time viewing the many buildings of the Marais district.

Constructed during the early 17th century there are nearly 40 large 'maisons' here. Viewing them, one can easily forget that modern bustling Paris is only a few blocks away.

The museum is easy to get to via the metro (subway). Exit at Chemin-Vert, Saint-Paul or Bastille.

The Romun Forum - A center of political and cultural life

Located in a valley between Palatine Hill and Capitoline Hill, the Forum Romanum is one of the foremost archaeological sites in the world. Long before the first millennium the forum was the center of political and cultural life for the Roman Empire.

Under construction for centuries, by the 7th century BC it was already a major part of Roman culture. It grew into final form under Octavian, son of Julius Caesar in the decades around the beginning of the first millennium.

Composed of a dozen temples, arches and other structures, it was rightly called the Forum Magnum (the Great Forum) by those who had many to choose from. Built on drained marsh land, it provided a focal point for commerce, legal administration and social interaction for the citizens and rulers of Rome.

The structures fell into ruin after the Roman Empire collapsed in the early part of the 5th century AD, parts of it being used in the Middle Ages for grazing cattle. But with the re-birth called the Renaissance it was rediscovered. A long restoration effort began in the Age of Reason at the beginning of the 18th century and continues to this day.

Today, echoes of its grandeur can still be seen around the large complex of buildings.

Archaeologists and others have relined its paved streets, picked away the debris of centuries and opened the forum to the public. The facility is far too large to be seen in one day, but even a small sample of what's there is enough to give visitors a good sample of what was the glory of Rome.

The Temple of Venus and Roma is just one example of the massive scale at which the Romans executed their public projects. A huge temple designed and built by the Emperor Hadrian, it sits atop a plateau facing the Colosseum.

The Temple of Concord is equally impressive. Dedicated to peace, it was completed in 367 BC on the western end of the Forum. Once a repository of statues made of gold and silver, it remains a shining reminder of what the builders of Rome could accomplish.

There are many more. The Temples of Saturn, Castor and Pollux, Vespasian and several others all demonstrate the vision made real by the Roman emperors and their architects. But there are many structures besides the temples as well.

Arches, invented and perfected by the Romans and not improved on for a thousand years, line many of the walkways. The Arch of Titus and the Arch of Septimus Severus are only two out of many outstanding examples.

The Rostra, from which politicians made speeches, is still in evidence. Standing beneath it one can easily be transported back to a time in many ways very similar to our own. The Lapis Niger, or Black Stone, is a shrine that shows another aspect of the endless creativity of the builders. The Via Sacra, a shrine connected to it, is yet another.

No one can truly be said to have seen Rome until they've spent at least a day wandering around the grounds of this magnificent monument. It may just provide a needed reminder of what can be accomplished, and how easily it may be lost.

Notre Dame - The timeless symbol of France

Second only to the Eiffel Tower as the recognized symbol of France, the Cathédrale Notre Dame is both a tourist destination and a working church.

Built between 1163AD and 1345AD the Gothic masterpiece remains today one of the world's great structures. The enormous interior can seat 6,000 at the base. But, for many, the major attraction is the 387-step climb to the top of the famous towers.

Once reached via that winding, narrow passageway the visitor enters a large area dominated by a huge church bell and spectacular sights. From here it's easy to imagine the fictional Quasimodo (the Hunchback of Notre Dame) ringing the 13-ton bell and clambering on the gargoyles around the perimeter.

The near-360 degree view of Paris and the close-up views of the many statuary make the climb well worth the effort. Take care coming up, though. There's no guard rail and traffic runs both ways. Those coming down often cling to the wall, while climbers risk the outer edge on the steps.

Seen from the exterior, the building represents one of the pinnacles of High Gothic architecture. There are gargoyles, yes. But there is also the huge round window centered atop the west entrance, and magnificent high arches flanking the sides. Two more rose windows reside on the north and south faces.

The facade is festooned with the carvings of the many craftsmen who worked on the structure over the centuries. The west front alone contains 28 statues representing religious figures throughout history.

Entering the church is equally an uplifting experience. The high, rib-vaulted ceilings and the many stained-glass windows give the interior an appearance that awes, no matter how well prepared the visitor. Though in many ways typical of the period, the design is nonetheless staggering.

Here it's easy to picture the slaying of the medieval Bishop or the 1804 self-crowning of Napoleon or the return of General de Gaulle at the end of WWII. The 7,800-pipe organ alone makes a visit worthwhile.

It's nearly unthinkable now for the cathedral to not exist.

But for a time during the 19th century the fate of the church was very much in doubt. The structure had fallen into disrepair over the centuries and there was serious discussion of tearing it down.

Victor Hugo wrote his famous novel in part in order to call attention to the history and value of the building. His efforts, joined by several other well-known artists of the time, resulted in a renewed interest and the building was restored.

Reinstating the unusual triforium and the small clerestory windows in the east bay of the nave were only two among many efforts in a project begun in 1844 and lasting 23 years.

Notre Dame is easy to find from the Saint-Michel or Chatelet-Les Halles metro (subway) stations.