A Visit to San Gimignano in Tuscany

Once an ancient Etruscan settlement, San Gimignano's first walls were erected much later, in 998 AD. It became one of Italy's smaller city-statues in the 12th century.

Featured in fictional form in E.M Forster's 1905 novel Where Angels Fear to Tread, this Tuscany town provides the perfect backdrop for a modern visit as well. Situated roughly halfway between Florence and Siena, San Gimignano is the perfect place to stop and see some sights, not least of which are the famed towers.

Many of the medieval towers that dot the landscape throughout this region have been lost to wars, construction projects and other changes. Here, they form the centerpiece of one of Tuscany's most unusual offerings. Fourteen remain from the 72 originally commissioned and each one is a unique work of art.

The Communal Palace is another of San Gimignano's outstanding offerings. Home of the Town Gallery it houses works by Filippino Lippi, Pier Francesco Fiorentino and others. From Dante's Hall it's a short walk to the fresco by Lippo Memmi. Not much further is the Torre del Podestà, a full 54 meters (177 feet) high.
There is a small Archaeological Museum featuring a variety of fascinating objects. Artifacts housed here display the full history of the town from its Etruscan origins through the Roman period and up to the Medieval period that gave the town its current appearance.

The Sacred Art Museum houses art and artifacts from many of the regions's churches and includes paintings, silverware, terracotta and many fine funeral monuments.

There's even a small collection of modern and contemporary art on view at the Gallery Raffaele De Grada. Drawing from recent decades, it houses many of the current art works important to the town. It also organizes art events throughout the year.

From the center of town walkers have easy access to the four main public squares: Piazza delle Erbe, Piazza Pecori, Piazza della Cisterna and Piazza del Duomo where the Collegiata is located. Any direction you care to go, you're sure to see something of interest.

Head to the outskirts and you'll find one of the best views of the many towers. With binoculars it's easy to spot many of the fine details, while from a vantage point on one of the many hills you can take in the breathtaking view. It's no accident that many professional photos of Tuscany are taken from this area.

A little farther out lie some of the area's best wineries. The white Vernaccia di San Gimignano is grown here. At different times of the year, usually in the summer, it's possible to sample some of the excellent vintage.

Though not the most well known location among those seeking a tour of Tuscany, San Gimignano is not only a convenient rest stop, but provides outstanding things to see and do all its own.

Poble Espanyol (The Spanish Village)

One of the most popular shopping areas of Barcelona, the Poble Espanyol is an array of houses, shops and other buildings done in every style seen across Spain. Enter through the gateway simulated to look like the great walled city of Avila and experience the many sights within.

Built in 1929 as part of the International Exhibit, it provides delightful crafts and entertainment, while giving a view of the many architectural styles around the country. Many of them are careful replicas of existing buildings from around Spain. There are over 100 different styles represented from Galicia, Castille, Basque and the many other regions of this diverse country.

In the interior is a large square, the Plaza Mayor, featuring the Utebo Clock Tower. Connected to it are smaller squares with a town hall, a church, a faux monastery and homes.

While you're seeing the interesting architecture you can be entertained by street performers and artists. Purchase handcrafted jewelry or just sit and sip a cool drink outside the Tablao de Carmen. There are over 40 workshops here featuring ceramics, embroidery and other handcrafts.

Art of many kinds can be seen throughout the poble. At the Fundació Fran Daurel, you can find works by contemporary Catalan artists along with their more famous colleagues from the past. The building houses art by Picasso, Dali and many others. Lesser known (outside Spain), but still important artists like Barceló and Tàpies are represented, too.

Music is an ever-present feature of the 'village' with roving guitarists and horn players providing a festive atmosphere for shoppers. Wander along the boulevard and see pottery made before your eyes. Just next door is the glass blower who will fascinate you with his skill.
At night the village really comes alive.

Many of the shops remain open until 9 p.m. and offer engravings, handmade puppets, masks, leather, traditional woven baskets, musical instruments and much more.

There are dozens of bars, clubs and restaurants. Dancing is popular here with both tourists and locals alike. There's an open-air discotheque called La Terrazza that attracts visitors and Barcelonans equally.

But perhaps you want a more sedate experience? If you prefer to watch rather than participate, attend the famed flamenco performances. One of the best is found at the Tablao de Carmen. Here, visitors can see the finest in Spanish dance performed by world-class performers.

The village was only intended to last until six months after the 1929 exhibition, after which it was scheduled to be demolished. But the area proved so popular it has lasted to the day, receiving a major renovation in 1988. Come see why.

Poble Espanyol is easy to find. Just take the metro to Placa Espanya, then ride the escalators to the village.

Barcelona Zoo

Barcelona Zoo receives over a million visitors per year. It isn't hard to see why, once you know about all the things it has to offer animal lovers. Built in 1892 these 13 hectares located in Ciutadella Park house thousands of animals from 400 different species, many of whom are not typically found at other conservation facilities.

There are programs that stock and protect the Gila Monster (Heloderma suspectum). This large lizard is a favorite of kids and adults alike. You can safely view up close this creature that has changed little from prehistoric times. Not far behind on the time scale is the Giant Anteater (Myrmecophaga trydactyla), a rare species at zoos. The Pygmy Hippopotamus (Choeropsis liberiensis) is another unusual animal that visitors won't see even at many larger facilities.

The zoo also hosts a number of Black Vultures, a Mhorr's Gazelle and Rothschild's Giraffes. In addition to these well-known names, Barcelona zoo is home to species that are rarely seen elsewhere, such as the Greater Kudu, Siamangs (an arboreal gibbon) and several Mangabeys (a type of Old World monkey).

The zoo is home to a number of interesting bird species to delight visitors, including night herons, egrets and storks. But other species get a fair showing, as well, such as the Majorcan midwife toad from the Tramuntana Mountains. There is a snake house that kids will stare into for hours on end.

There's no shortage of the kind of animals that zoo lovers often travel far to seek out. Barcelona offers several Eurasian Otters, which are part of the zoo's active return-to-the-wild program. They have a Red Panda that is a great favorite among zoo-goers of all ages. And the pack of Iberian wolves, native to Spain, continues to attract thousands of onlookers every year.

The zoo provides refuge to several lowland gorillas, too. Not least of those was the famous Snowflake, a quasi-albino gorilla, a resident for 30 years. Snowflake was not a true albino, since his eyes were blue, not pink. But his fur was completely white, the only known example of this variation. Snowflake died in 2003, but several of his progeny are housed at the zoo and there is a large exhibit showing many videos of this fascinating animal.

The zoo has another unusual feature: dolphins. Aquatic animals don't often make their way into zoos, generally being reserved for aquaria. Barcelona has one of those, as well. But there are several different species housed here, including Bottlenose Dolphins. They even play host to a killer whale, practically an unprecedented species to find at a zoo.

Along with the dolphins and killer whale, the zoo holds several semi-aquatic creatures: Humboldt Penguins. These delightfully zany creatures fly underwater using their flippers as wings, just as birds do through the much thinner fluid we call air. But the method in each case is much the same and as much fun to watch in the case of the penguins.

The zoo is easy to reach. Just take the metro to Ciutadella. The zoo is a short walk away. When finished, take in some of the many other sights offered by the Ciutadella Park.

Cortona, a town in Tuscany

Cortona is a Tuscan town once little known to travelers booking for Florence. After the publication of Under the Tuscan Sun (and the subsequent film and follow-up books) it garnered a place on every visitor's agenda. Justifiably so.

In this Italian hilltop town of 30,000 there are more sights than a visitor could see in three vacations. Located about half-way between its much more famous neighbors of Rome and Florence this ancient city offers museums, restaurants, villas, biking tours and much more.

The founding date is unknown, but Cortona's streets were walled in by the Etruscans more than 2,600 years ago. Some of that history is still extant near the Porta Guelfa and the Porta Montanina. At the base one can spot Roman repairs made to Etruscan slabs.

Inside, looking out above the walls, visitors will find a breathtaking view of Lake Trasimeno from the square of Piazza Garibaldi. Just past the church is an entrance to a park. The fountain in the center features two bronze dolphins that will reward the effort of the short walk. Just left is an amphitheater that offers a lovely place to sit and see part of beautiful Tuscany.

The Piazza Grande, featuring the Town Hall that dates from the 6th century, is another must-visit location. If your visit to Cortona falls on the first Saturday of the month, be sure to take in the Market. Food, small artifacts and many more interesting items are offered for sale. In nearby Casali Palace there's a National Market of Ancient Furniture held in the Piazza Grande during the last two weeks of August.

From there one can also almost see the ancient burial grounds of Cetona Belvedere. Full of grottoes and caverns to explore, they're one of the many delightful excursions offered. One can also get a clear view of the tallest peak of the local mountain range. Down from the top is located another town worthy of a visit, Montepulciano.

Another worthy short trip entails a visit to the Great Cloister of the Monastero Di Monte Oliveto Maggiore. Built in 1443, tourists will want to see the frescoes depicting the life of Saint Benedict by Signorelli, painted near the end of the 15th century.

Those interested in religious architecture will also not want to miss viewing the church of Santa Maria del Calcinaio, built in 1485. This Renaissance structure is octagonal, an unusual choice for the period.

Another unusual sight within the city walls visitors can take in is the Torre del Pulcinella, a large public clock. It announces the hours by a different technique. Its chimes are a pair of clanging cymbals, rather than a bell.

Not far away is the Museo dell'Academia Etrusca. Despite the name the museum covers not just Etruscan art, but everything from ancient Egyptian artifacts to paintings of the 15th century. Also on display are books, period furniture and sculpture.

By contrast, the Museo Diocesano offers a more focused exhibit. This includes the Cortona Altarpiece from 1432 along with six predella. Predella, in painting, are small paintings that run along a frame at the bottom of an altarpiece.

However long you have, an hour or a day, or even a week, time in Cortona is well spent.

The Seine River in Paris

Whether seen by a long, leisurely walk or from one of the many excellent tour boats, the view along the Seine in Paris is a delight.

The river flows nearly 800km (480mi) from Dijon through Paris and into the English Channel. But even the short section through the city provides enough sights to satisfy the most discerning traveler.

La Tour Eiffel can be seen changing shades from cocoa to gold as dusk fades to dark. The lights along its four pillars melding into the spire are only one of the many sights not to be missed.

Joining the left and right banks (the 'rive gauche' and the 'rive droit') along this ancient river are bridges themselves no stranger to time.

The oldest extant is Pont Neuf, ironically called 'the new bridge', whose first stone was laid by Henry III in 1578. Continued during the reign of his successor Henry IV in 1598, the construction was an enormous undertaking for the time. Finally completed in 1607, the bridge itself is, in a sense, older than France. At the time, the country was still split into fairly independent regions, such as Burgundy, Champagne and Normandy.

One of its newer cousins is the Pont d'Austerlitz constructed from 1854 to 1885. Comprised of five cast iron arches with a span of 32m (105ft), it rests on four piers and two stone abutments. (Abutments are the supports for the ends of a bridge.) The bridge has been widened twice from its original 13m (43ft) to the present 30m (98ft).

But not only youth and age are represented along these shores. Elegant beauty, in the form of the Alexander III, is also here. Opened in 1900, the bridge connects the Grand Palais on the right bank to the Invalides on the left. With pillars decorated by a gilded bronze Pegasus and large lampposts encircled by cherubs and nymphs, the Alexander III is among Paris' most artistic public works.

The many tour boats provide another way to see the sights. Some are small, others larger, but they all offer a relaxed way to see the bridges and parts of Paris from another point of view.

The visitor can enjoy a glass of wine as the lights come on along the Montparnasse. The larger boats even offer lunch or dinner. From the uncovered flat boats tours are given in English and French. Several glide as far as past the Eiffel Tower and back past Notre Dame to Quai Henri IV.

Accessible from the center of the Pont Neuf, just walk down to the tip of the island, to Square du Vert Galant.

Once you've completed the boat tour, don't forget about the other attractions. From the exit it's just a short walk to many other things to do and see.

Just down the bank is one of the finest art museums in the world, the Musée d'Orsay. And there are several small galleries and shops along the way. Be sure to walk down the stone steps to the river itself and see the bridges from underneath as well.

Enchanté!

Domus Aurea: The Golden House of Nero in Rome

One of the more recent attractions in Rome is actually one of the more ancient. The Golden House of Nero, what remains of it, has been excavated and the ruins are now available for public viewing. Though re-discovered during the Renaissance, they were the subject of a massive restoration project near the end of the 20th century.

Constructed in 64 AD after the devastating fire that burned two-thirds of Rome (at which legend has it Nero fiddled), the Golden House is an archaeological treasure trove. At one time many parts were covered with gold foil and the ceiling festooned with ivory and jewels by the extravagant emperor. Alas, these are not on display. They were stripped from the palace shortly after Nero's death.

The original palace and related structures covered 350 acres that included a man-made lake, vineyards and the house itself. Terming the villa a house, however, is misleading. It contained 300 rooms, but is thought to have had no sleeping quarters. None that were intentional, at least. No doubt many passed out where they were during the parties for which Nero was famed.

It was the original site of the huge statue Nero had made, bearing his own likeness of course, that was later relocated to outside the Colosseum. The bronze base of the 40m/130ft statue can still be seen there.

Though much has been destroyed over the centuries, there still remains enough to satisfy anyone looking to spend an interesting hour or two tour in a cool place. That's always welcome in Rome, where the temperature can be in the mid-80s even in late October.

The underground, audio-guided tour offers enormous, fresco-covered vaults and many rooms to explore. The frescoes painted by Fabullus, a noted artist of the period were executed in a style popular in Pompeii, the doomed city not far from Rome.

The Renaissance artist Raphael used them as models for some of his own work, and many Renaissance artists - including Michaelangelo - went to visit the (then) newly discovered palace frescoes. Both artists left their signatures scratched in the walls, to be later joined by such luminaries as Casanova and the Marquis de Sade.

The tour shows a wide variety - some areas are shadowed ruins with barely visible carvings. Others are fully restored golden and marble walls with largely intact paintings and fireplaces.

Grottos abound in the underground area, but the most impressive portion is unquestionably the Octagon Room. Here Nero, a great fan of Greek art, housed a statue of the Dying Gaul, which can now be seen in the Pallazo Altemps museum.

Outside, there are gardens and a reconstruction of the octagonal room that allow the visitor to clearly imagine what living there must have been like.

The Eiffel Tower in Paris, quite simply the most romantic location on earth...

Originally intended as a structure to commemorate the French Revolution, who could've guessed that 100 years later The Eiffel Tower would become the symbol of Paris itself?

But, judging by the six million annual visitors and the millions of photographs, that's what it has become. To date the tower has received over 200 million visitors since its completion in 1889.

For two years, three hundred workers joined over 18,000 pieces of structural iron to form the tower's three distinct levels. Those levels currently house over 1,500 steps. The number has varied over the years with different renovations. But the visitor can be grateful not to have to climb the 300 meter (984 ft) tower, thanks to the many elevators. The uppermost portion supports a 24m (79ft) spire.

By far the tallest structure in Paris, the tip may bend away from the vertical by as much as 18cm (7in) due to expansion of its 7,300 metric tons of iron. Warming by the sun heats one side more than the other.

That's all the more remarkable since wind shear is usually the major problem with tall structures. But, the engineering is so well-thought out that the strongest winds cause no more than five inches of deflection.

Every seven years the entire structure is re-painted (using 50 tons of paint) to prevent rusting. Visitors can vote on the next color to be used by means of a computer housed in the tower.

Among many remarkable statistics about the tower is its history as the world's tallest structure until being overtaken by the Chrysler Building in 1930. Quite a long reign considering there were widespread petitions to have it torn down by some who considered it ugly and intrusive.

That might have succeeded if it hadn't been in use as an antenna for the then-leading-edge technology of telegraphy. More than just decorative, the tower has been used as part of a communications system almost from the start. In 1909 a permanent underground radio center was built and since 1957 it's been used as a transmission tower for both FM radio and television.

The tower has even been part of scientific research. In 1910, Wulf used it to make measurements that resulted in the discovery of cosmic rays.

But in typical Gallic fashion the practical use exists side-by-side with the aesthetic. The tower holds two restaurants: Altitude 95 on the first level, and the Jules Verne on the second. The latter has earned one star in the Michelin Guide and is accessible via a private elevator.

Apart from appearing in millions of photographs and thousands of television commercials, it has been used more directly as an advertising vehicle. From 1925 to 1934 the tower supported billboards for the automaker Citroen.

But the tourist needs no commercial to motivate a visit. The view from the observation platform, especially at dusk, more than exceeds any expectations set by ads. All of Paris twinkles below as the city is illuminated by both the onset of electric lights and the fading sun.

To visit the tower, take the Metro - the Paris subway - to the Trocadero station. Then, walk from the Palais de Chaillot to the Seine.

Las Ramblas in Barcelona

Once exclusively a flower market, the bustling Las Ramblas area of Barcelona is the perfect place for shopping and people watching. Once lined with convents and churches, the streets are now thronged with performers, magazine vendors and a hundred other things. The convents and monasteries were all closed by 1830.

There are no cars allowed in the central sections. They are constrained to two small one-way streets on either side of the pedestrian areas. So, you can walk at your leisure among the many things to see and do.

Meander along from the Placa Catalunya, past the famed statue of Columbus, to the water's edge. There are many paths to choose from. The Rambla dels Ocells (Avenue of the birds) is aptly named for the once popular bird market in this old part of the Spanish city. The Rambla de les Flors once held the only flower shops in the city. Along the Rambla dels Caputxins there are old buildings, kiosks full of books and interesting people galore.

You'll pass by the opera house of Liceu Theatre situated at the midpoint of the Ramblas. Along the way, stop and see the Miró Mosaic. This circular tile created by the Spanish artist attracts thousands to the area every year. You'll also pass the outside of the famed produce market, Mercat de la Boqueria. Rest a while at the Cafe de la Opera and enjoy a bracing cup of coffee, Barcelona style.

There's no longer any need to avoid the Barri del Raval, once the red-light district of the city. If you hit the area in the evening, you'll find dozens of small restaurants and bars to choose from that will delight any tourist.

Art lovers should be sure to walk along Carrer de Montalegre where the Centre de Cultura Contemporània de Barcelona is located. It houses the restored Museu d'Art Contemporani, which holds many permanent and roving exhibitions.

The Barri Gotic, the Gothic section, contains many architectural wonders to explore, including the famed cathedral, La Seu. It stands in the center of the original city and forms part of Barcelona's two thousand year history. Nearby is the church of Santa Maria del Mar, which offers a representative example of Catalonian Gothic architecture.

Music lovers will want to catch one of the many afternoon concerts at Sant Josep Oriol. They're a little more organized than the random street performers. But the latter are often just as professional, so sample both.

Now head for shopping at nearby Portal de l'Àngel and Portaferrissa. Along the central boulevard are hundreds of clothing shops, antique stores and more. Most everyone will want to head for the El Cortes Ingles in Placa Catalunya Square at the northern end. This seven-story department store is the rival of Harrod's in London, Macy's in New York and the other great shopping meccas of the world.

You could spend your entire vacation, not to mention your entire bank account, in the Las Ramblas of Barcelona. And that would be a great choice!

Montmartre of Paris!

Montmartre is a fascinating mixture of old and new, seedy and sacred, bizarre and blasé. Within this section of Paris, technically the 18th arrondissement, there is everything from Moulin Rouge and Musée d'Erotisme to the Sacré Coeur Basilica. There are several art shops, a Dali museum and even a winery.

(Note: An 'arrondissement' is a district, laid out around Paris clockwise, with the 1st at the center of the clock face.)

There are steep hills in parts, so be prepared for a hike, particularly up to the Basilica. But there are cobblestoned streets, too, with antique shops and 'bistros'.

The word 'bistro' comes from the Russian meaning 'quick'. It was first imported in the early 19th century by Cossack occupiers who wanted to be fed immediately. Everything from frogs legs to Tarte Tatin is served at spots as old as 1793 in the Place du Tertre.

At the Espace Montmartre one can view an original Dali etching and browse to the glares of the staff. The museum houses Dali sculpture, lithographs, drawings and even some furniture pieces.

For a different art experience visit the Musée de Montmartre. This 17th century house holds apartments once occupied by Renoir, Utrillo and other famous names. Renoir's Galette, sold at auction in 1990 for $78 million, was finished here. Among other works, there are several original Toulouse-Lautrec posters on display.

And while you're thinking of Lautrec, don't forget to visit (at least the outside of) Moulin Rouge. Very pricey ($100 or more), with a floor show garnering mixed reviews, the windmill on the exterior is a photo-op not to be bypassed.

About 20 minutes walk from the Sacré Coeur Basilica, there are several other nightclubs in the area, as well. Beware the Pigalle neighborhood, though. It constitutes one of the seedier areas around.

By contrast, the Montmartre cemetery located in the eastern part of the district, is a pleasant park nearby. Tree-lined and festooned with flowers and dotted with benches, there are tombs and mausoleums galore.

And if you visit in mid-October you might even be able to catch the Grape Festival not far away. Hosting the only vineyard in Paris, Clos Montmartre (at 12 Rue Cortot) was planted in 1933 and has 2,000 vines under cultivation. Most varieties grown in France are represented and the wine lover won't be disappointed.

For those who like a hike, start at the Abbesses Metro. Take a few minutes to enjoy the Art Nouveau awning and the mosaics around the door of the Eglise St Jean l'Evangéliste.

While you're nearby, visit the crypt in the Chappelle du Martyre (at 9 Rue Yvonne-Le-Tac). The first Bishop of Paris, St Denys, is laid to rest here at the site where Loyala, the founder of the Jesuits, took his vows. (Open only on Friday.)

Most will want to finish their visit with a trip to the Sacré Coeur Basilica at the top of the hill. Whether standing on the white steps or up in the dome, the views are spectacular. Go early to avoid the crowds and the heat.

Montmartre is accessible via several metro (subway) lines. M12 (Lamarck-Caulaincourt) or M4 (Chateau-Rouge), Blanche station, etc. Anything which leads to the 18th arrondissement.

Barcelona, the city of Gaudi architecture

The architect Antonio Gaudi (1852-1926) didn't create Barcelona. The city is over 2,000 years old and the famed artist was active around the end of the 19th century. But much that is worthy in this Spanish city is the result of his efforts. Just a list of the works he created that are still extant here would fill pages. To describe them would take volumes.

Unquestionably the most well known of his buildings in Barcelona is the Sagrada Familia, otherwise known as the Temple of the Holy Family. The structure almost defies description. Part neo-Gothic, part neo-Baroque it is sui generis. A series of spires topping a church begun in 1883, it is still under construction.

The Park Guell on nearby Montjuic, completed in 1914, is one of the architect's civil engineering projects. It is a 20-hectare expanse filled with lush greenery and art objects that visitors to Central Park in New York would envy. Whether it's the outstanding lizard sculpture or the famed enormous wavy bench, or just a touch of mosaic tile here and there, the distinctive Gaudi look is clearly evident.

Another structure almost as well known and as often visited is the Casa Milà, or La Pedrera (The Stone Quarry). Originally designed as a private home, it quickly evolved into a set of individual apartments. The organic, undulating balconies give the facade its unique look from the street, but the organic Gaudi elements are everywhere in and on the structure. From the ice-cream cone-shaped chimneys to the seaweed-style wrought iron to the hushed, glowing attic, the building is Gaudi throughout.

Several other structures of the man regarded as the Father of Spanish Art Nouveau demonstrate his worthiness to that title.

Casa Batllo, erected in 1907, is one of the many Gaudi buildings on the UNESCO World Heritage list of worthy treasures that prove the point. As in the Casa Milà, the architect's unusual style is readily visible. The balconies that almost resemble sections of skull around the eye sockets combine with a colorful mosaic-like facade that seems to be melting. The curved chimney complex set in front of an orange clamshell roofline is yet more proof of his unique style.

Gaudi employed organic shapes everywhere, but always adapted them to his own purposes, just as the better known Frank Lloyd Wright always did. That is clear in the Colonia Guell chapel. The unique arches bear the stamp of this unusual artist. Festooned with organic carvings, the arches themselves are sharp angled, yet blend seamlessly into a main structure that appears almost cavelike.

In a city full of outstanding architecture, Gaudi's work continues to be frequently visited by locals and tourists alike. A single glance at any of his buildings makes it easy to see why.