A Visit to Fiesole, Tuscany

It will come as no surprise that much of the Roman character of Tuscany has been preserved. One special example of that fact is to be found in Fiesole. A superb respite from busy Florence below, Fiesole offers views of the city, the Arno and much more from atop its peak.

The town itself far predates the Roman period, going back to the country's Etruscan era in the 9th century BC. From here, high on the hill, one can look out on modern Florence. But the distance is just great enough that it isn't hard to imagine life as it was those many centuries ago.

Conquered by the Romans in 283 BC, Fiesole soon became home to an outstanding school of the period. The city saw wars between Rome and the Vandals, as well, in the early 5th century AD. Its citizens fought many wars with Florence until succumbing to its more famous neighbor in 1125 AD.

Scattered around the town are reminders of all those events and many more.

The cathedral is a plain structure, but well worth a look for its orange brick and medieval tower. The Franciscan monastery is another site that may offer simple architecture, but is full of historical significance. In the Courtyard to Heaven, there is a quite interesting small column with a cross set between two short thin columns topped by a lintel.
Much grander is the nearby Medici Villa, built by the famous rulers in the mid-15th century. Or, one could visit the nearby Lombard tombs, a reminder of the time the site served as a necropolis. In addition, there are outstanding examples of Greek vases, amphorae and many other artifacts that would have been well known to citizens of the day.
But unquestionably, one of the most enticing sights for visitors is the Roman Theater, still in use today.

Built in the 1st century BC, it offers an amphitheater that seats 3,000 today just as it did 2,000 years ago. The right half is original, the left portion was rebuilt in the 19th century. Sitting among sections of column, broken friezes and other remnants of the period, it's easy to imagine hearing a performance from that bygone era.

A grove of olive trees decorates the center and there are baths with outstanding arches nearby. Sitting on the curved stone bleachers one can hear the strains of Vivaldi from the 18th century while being reminded of music from much further back.

Or, you may be fortunate enough to see one of the plays that are produced there. Nothing can compare to the experience of seeing an original Roman comedy by Terence or Plautus in a theater where patrons first heard its lines spoken.

A visit to Fiesole can last an hour, after winding up the steep curvy road, or occupy a full day or evening. Visitors who make the trip will be glad they did.

A Visit to San Gimignano in Tuscany

Once an ancient Etruscan settlement, San Gimignano's first walls were erected much later, in 998 AD. It became one of Italy's smaller city-statues in the 12th century.

Featured in fictional form in E.M Forster's 1905 novel Where Angels Fear to Tread, this Tuscany town provides the perfect backdrop for a modern visit as well. Situated roughly halfway between Florence and Siena, San Gimignano is the perfect place to stop and see some sights, not least of which are the famed towers.

Many of the medieval towers that dot the landscape throughout this region have been lost to wars, construction projects and other changes. Here, they form the centerpiece of one of Tuscany's most unusual offerings. Fourteen remain from the 72 originally commissioned and each one is a unique work of art.

The Communal Palace is another of San Gimignano's outstanding offerings. Home of the Town Gallery it houses works by Filippino Lippi, Pier Francesco Fiorentino and others. From Dante's Hall it's a short walk to the fresco by Lippo Memmi. Not much further is the Torre del Podestà, a full 54 meters (177 feet) high.
There is a small Archaeological Museum featuring a variety of fascinating objects. Artifacts housed here display the full history of the town from its Etruscan origins through the Roman period and up to the Medieval period that gave the town its current appearance.

The Sacred Art Museum houses art and artifacts from many of the regions's churches and includes paintings, silverware, terracotta and many fine funeral monuments.

There's even a small collection of modern and contemporary art on view at the Gallery Raffaele De Grada. Drawing from recent decades, it houses many of the current art works important to the town. It also organizes art events throughout the year.

From the center of town walkers have easy access to the four main public squares: Piazza delle Erbe, Piazza Pecori, Piazza della Cisterna and Piazza del Duomo where the Collegiata is located. Any direction you care to go, you're sure to see something of interest.

Head to the outskirts and you'll find one of the best views of the many towers. With binoculars it's easy to spot many of the fine details, while from a vantage point on one of the many hills you can take in the breathtaking view. It's no accident that many professional photos of Tuscany are taken from this area.

A little farther out lie some of the area's best wineries. The white Vernaccia di San Gimignano is grown here. At different times of the year, usually in the summer, it's possible to sample some of the excellent vintage.

Though not the most well known location among those seeking a tour of Tuscany, San Gimignano is not only a convenient rest stop, but provides outstanding things to see and do all its own.

Cortona, a town in Tuscany

Cortona is a Tuscan town once little known to travelers booking for Florence. After the publication of Under the Tuscan Sun (and the subsequent film and follow-up books) it garnered a place on every visitor's agenda. Justifiably so.

In this Italian hilltop town of 30,000 there are more sights than a visitor could see in three vacations. Located about half-way between its much more famous neighbors of Rome and Florence this ancient city offers museums, restaurants, villas, biking tours and much more.

The founding date is unknown, but Cortona's streets were walled in by the Etruscans more than 2,600 years ago. Some of that history is still extant near the Porta Guelfa and the Porta Montanina. At the base one can spot Roman repairs made to Etruscan slabs.

Inside, looking out above the walls, visitors will find a breathtaking view of Lake Trasimeno from the square of Piazza Garibaldi. Just past the church is an entrance to a park. The fountain in the center features two bronze dolphins that will reward the effort of the short walk. Just left is an amphitheater that offers a lovely place to sit and see part of beautiful Tuscany.

The Piazza Grande, featuring the Town Hall that dates from the 6th century, is another must-visit location. If your visit to Cortona falls on the first Saturday of the month, be sure to take in the Market. Food, small artifacts and many more interesting items are offered for sale. In nearby Casali Palace there's a National Market of Ancient Furniture held in the Piazza Grande during the last two weeks of August.

From there one can also almost see the ancient burial grounds of Cetona Belvedere. Full of grottoes and caverns to explore, they're one of the many delightful excursions offered. One can also get a clear view of the tallest peak of the local mountain range. Down from the top is located another town worthy of a visit, Montepulciano.

Another worthy short trip entails a visit to the Great Cloister of the Monastero Di Monte Oliveto Maggiore. Built in 1443, tourists will want to see the frescoes depicting the life of Saint Benedict by Signorelli, painted near the end of the 15th century.

Those interested in religious architecture will also not want to miss viewing the church of Santa Maria del Calcinaio, built in 1485. This Renaissance structure is octagonal, an unusual choice for the period.

Another unusual sight within the city walls visitors can take in is the Torre del Pulcinella, a large public clock. It announces the hours by a different technique. Its chimes are a pair of clanging cymbals, rather than a bell.

Not far away is the Museo dell'Academia Etrusca. Despite the name the museum covers not just Etruscan art, but everything from ancient Egyptian artifacts to paintings of the 15th century. Also on display are books, period furniture and sculpture.

By contrast, the Museo Diocesano offers a more focused exhibit. This includes the Cortona Altarpiece from 1432 along with six predella. Predella, in painting, are small paintings that run along a frame at the bottom of an altarpiece.

However long you have, an hour or a day, or even a week, time in Cortona is well spent.

The Uffizi Gallery in Florence

It's rare for an art museum to have too many masterpieces to display. That happy fate befell the Uffizi Gallery in Florence when the last of the Medici, Electress Anna Maria, willed the entire family collection to the gallery in 1743. The results, collected over several centuries, provide a view of one of the finest treasure troves of art anywhere in the world.

The Uffizi occupies a building originally intended as office space for the Grand Duke Cosimo I (1519-1574). 'Uffizi' in Italian means 'office'. The gallery itself was completed in 1581 from a design by Vasari, under the sponsorship of Cosimo's son, Francisco. Gradually, the Medici transferred more and more works here, creating the world's first public art museum in 1591.

Many art museums start with a small, sometimes outstanding, collection of privately collected works. Here, as with everything they did the Medici - rulers of Florence off and on for generations - packed them in by the cartload.

Works are presented in chronological order, giving viewers the opportunity to see the whole panoply of Renaissance art in the manner it developed. That display constitutes not just an education but an experience of a lifetime.

Among the works here are the famed Venus by Botticelli. The Ognissanti Madonna by the late Gothic master, Giotto, is on display. It is kept company by The Madonna and Child with Two Angles, by Lippi, along with hundreds more equally great works. Raphael's Madonna of the Goldfinch resides not far from a Bacchus by Caravaggio.

One wall holds the Venus of Urbino by Titian. Another displays the Baptism of the Christ by del Verrocchio. Michelangelo's Doni Tondo is one of the lesser works in this superb collection. Da Vinci's Annunciation is just down the corridor. The famed Mannerist painting, The Madonna of the Long Neck by Parmigianino resides in the Uffizi.

Outstanding as that portion of the collection undoubtedly is, there is much more to the Uffizi than Italian Renaissance works of the masters.

Rembrandt's Self-Portrait as an Old Man is one example. The Adoration of the Magi by the great German master, Albrecht Dürer is yet another. El Greco, Goya and Velasquez are all well represented.

Many later works are on display, too, including over 250 self-portraits one of which is of Chagall who handed his to the curator personally. Works by Ingres, Delacroix and Rubens can be seen in the narrow corridors. The museum also holds almost 1,400 miniatures, second only to the collection in the Victoria and Albert Museum in London.

The Uffizi remains one of Florence's most popular attractions. In a city full of outstanding art, both indoor and out, that is quite an achievement. When so many outstanding artists are represented in one collection visitors will be offered more than can be seen in one afternoon. To view the collection, then, and actually see it, will take some planning. During the summer it can take several hours to get in without a reservation. Therefore, booking well in advance is vital.

But the small effort will be richly rewarded. Nowhere else in the world is there quite this comprehensive display of so many fine works.

Appreciating the Piazza del Duomo in Pisa

The Leaning Tower of Pisa may be the most famous landmark of this Tuscan city. But, there are many other stellar sights to see in the Piazza del Duomo where the tower is located.

Scattered around lush green lawn lie some of the world's finest architectural achievements. There's the famed campanile, of course. But there is also the Duomo or cathedral itself to which the leaning tower is 'merely' a bell tower.

Begun in 1063, over a hundred years prior to the tower, the cathedral is the very prototype of late Romanesque architecture in this area of the world. With a floor plan in the standard shape of a cross, it is 100m (328 feet) long by 35m (115 feet) wide. Though not enormously tall by contemporary standards its 34m (112 feet) height would have been extremely impressive to citizens of its day.

Approach from the usual entrance and you'll see magnificent bronze doors, decorated with religious scenes that would have been fully familiar to its visitors. Carved in the 12th century by Bonanno, they're known as the Porta di San Ranieri.

There are Moorish influences around the building as well, owing to the Muslim traders the Italians did business with frequently. The cathedral was the first structure to incorporate horizontal stripes of marble of the sort commonly seen in Moorish architecture.

Some of the rounded arches provide a setting for outstanding mullioned windows. The carvings are so delicate it's difficult to believe they could have been accomplished at the time. Marble inlaid with Moorish lozenges at the top, they're truly works of art in themselves. 'Lozenges', in this style of architecture, resemble the shape of the cough drop, hence the name.

Regrettably, a fire in 1595 AD destroyed much of the original art work in the interior. But the building itself bears few traces of that tragic event. Among the outstanding surviving components are the 14th century pulpit with Corinthian columns resting on lion statuary. It's festooned with carved panels depicting scenes from the New Testament of the Christian Bible.

Above the apse lies a copy of a bronze griffin (a winged lion), believed to have been imported from Egypt in the 11th century. The original was moved to the nearby Museo del Duomo. The transept door sports Romanesque panels depicting the life of Christ that are a marvel to this day.

Another survivor of the fire is the tomb of Emperor Henry VII completed in 1315. Atop it are a pair of Ghirlandaio angels that visitors should be sure not to miss.

According to his student, it was within this church that Galileo watched a pendulum swaying back and forth one day. This was one of the keys to his formation of the law of the pendulum, which states that the period, the time of swing, is the same regardless of the angle it starts at. It forms the basis of many clock designs.

Looking up at the frescoed dome it's easy to imagine the famous scientist becoming distracted away from the sermon and toward the stupendous building.

Romantic vacations in villas in Tuscany

The Bed and Breakfast scene in Tuscany is booming. For good reason, since it offers something considerably different from its counterparts in other countries. Here, one can stay in a huge castle over 1,000 years old, or a tiny villa a 'mere' 100 years of age. Add in the surrounding countryside with its million and one things to see and you've got some very impressive numbers.

You can find accommodations near Lucca, offering a great location from which to explore Puccini's childhood home or the excellent art collection at the Villa Guinigi. Only an hour from Florence, visits to Siena, Cortona and other towns are a short trip away.

Or, those planning a trip to Tuscany may want to get something close to the spa resort of Montecatini Terme. Near Pistoia and not far from Lucca, the Residence Le Coloniche offers great rooms and outstanding food.

The Villa Gamberaia is set among the hills above Florence, not far from Fiesole in Settignano. Here one can get a superb view of the Arno and visit the famed Renaissance Gardens. Completed in the 17th century, the topiary art alone (trees trimmed into animal shapes), makes the stay well worthwhile.

For those looking for an authentic Tuscan farmhouse experience there are many choices. One of them is the Villa Dianella. Nestled next to olive groves and vineyards, the surrounding area makes for a peaceful place to stay.

To visit the Chianti area of Tuscany, one could do no better than a stay at the Villa Belfiore. Only a few miles from Florence, one gets a view of the Chianti hills, along with centuries-old vineyards and a modern swimming pool.

For those who want more than just a view of the vineyards, Rocca delle Macie near Castellina, or San Felice near Siena offer wine tasting tours along with the accommodations. Don't miss seeing the nearby Castello di Uzzano, an 11th century castle that dominates the hilltop.

Some of the villas are museums, rather than places to stay. But they too are worth the trip.

The Villa Castello was already built when it was acquired by the Medici in 1477. The masterpieces by Botticelli that once hung here are now in the Uffizi. But the villa itself is such a work of art one hardly misses them.

The Villa Petraia, once part of the estate on which resides the Villa Castello, offers several interesting sights. This medieval-era tower was once a summer residence of the Medici. With 17th century frescoes by Volterra and a 19th century ballroom enclosed in glass, it offers sights the tourist to Tuscany won't want to miss. If that isn't sufficient enticement add in a stroll in the multi-level gardens. With its oak woodland and numerous flower beds lovers of human and nature's art will both be satisfied.

Investigate the options, book early and then relax and enjoy your stay in a Tuscan villa.

While in Tuscany, do visit the Galleria dell'Accademia

The Accademia di Belle Arti Firenze, or Academy of Beautiful Art of Florence, as it's more formerly known, is just what the name states: a school of art. And it's true that students do study art here. They have since the Grand Duke of Tuscany, Pietro Leopold, gathered several schools under one roof in 1784. The roots of the school go back further, however, to the Academy of Art Design, founded in 1561. Yet, for visitors, it is the many art galleries that attract attention.

There is an extensive painting collection, with works ranging from the 13th through the 16th centuries. Not least are the 24 panels by Taddeo Gaddi depicting scenes from the life of Jesus. The Gallery also offers works by Uccello, Ghirlandaio, del Sarto and Botticelli. The Cassone Adimari, painted in the 1440s by Lo Scheggia, continues to attract a wide audience. Many of the paintings were collected for the specific purpose of providing the students with old masters to emulate and there are several here that serve that purpose well.

But, unquestionably, the works on display that attract the largest crowds are the busts and sculptures, and in particular Michelangelo's David.

Off the end of the left wing is a 19th century hall with one wall that is festooned with plaster casts, busts and sculpture. Providing the students with many examples to follow, it will also be of interest to lovers of art who can but look, rather than create. The highlight here is the original plaster of the Rape of the Sabine Women by Giambologna. The completed marble piece is in the Loggia dei Lanzi.

Along the main hallway visitors encounter several unfinished works of the great master, Michelangelo. The Four Captives (or Slaves) provide a glimpse into the working technique of one of the greatest artists in history. Scholars have debated whether they truly were unfinished or intentionally left partially clad in stone with only certain features defined. But lovers of sculpture will simply stand in awe of what even a partial work of those hands of genius could display.

At the end, on a specially constructed platform called the tribune, stands the main attraction: the David.

Made from a 16-foot piece of stone so oddly shaped that several other artists had abandoned it as impossible to work with, Michelangelo found in it good working material. From its depths he chipped, chiseled and polished one of the highest examples of three dimensional art ever created.

Attacked in 1991 by a madman with a hammer who managed to damage several toes before being stopped, it now resides behind a Plexiglas barrier. But visitors will still get a very good view of the masterpiece when they can jostle their way sufficiently through the crowd. Moved from the Piazza del Signoria in 1873 to preserve it after four centuries in the sun and air, it offers a sample of the pinnacle of art in a city full of outstanding works. A copy now stands where it once did.

Set atop a high pedestal, the more than life-sized statue is plainly visible. Viewers can easily pick out the ultra-lifelike muscles and veins. One can almost feel the warmth from a living being as the David stands in a relaxed but alert pose, ready for battle. Finished in 1504 by an artist not yet 30 years old, it is justly the most famous piece of sculpture in the world.

Come to the Galleria dell'Accademia in Florence and see why for yourself.

The attraction that is now legend - The Leaning Tower of Pisa

After over a decade of being strapped in steel cables and inaccessible to tourists, La Torre di Pisa is open once again. Nearly $30 million was spent to prevent the tower from leaning any further to avoid total collapse. Now it is good for another 300 years.

Begun in 1173 AD, the tower has been an architectural problem almost from its beginning. Owing to soft ground and a shallow foundation, the tower began to lean as early as the time the third floor was completed. This despite the over 13 foot-thick walls at the base. But engineers at the time had few resources to call on. There was no ground penetrating radar, geological science, lasers or huge cranes to right the work.

Ironically, the tower is not, or more accurately was not, the main attraction of the site. It was intended as a bell tower for the nearby cathedral. Both are extraordinary works of Romanesque-Gothic art. It's only because of an unfortunate engineering failure that the tower is the more famous of the two structures.

But far from being considered a failure at the time, it was not completely unknown for buildings to be less than perfect 800 years ago. There are examples in Germany, Ireland and even not far away inside Tuscany of both towers and rectangular buildings that lean slightly.

Still, visitors today will be thrilled by the view from below or above.

From the base, standing far back from the tower, one can see the round, layer-cake type facade. The base is somewhat plain, but not far up there are magnificent columns. The elaborate carving is even more amazing when one considers that the major construction effort was completed less than 200 years after beginning.

The project was stalled for about 100 years while the Pisans engaged in battles with Genoa and other Italian city-states of the period. Then, picking up in 1275 AD it stalled again in 1284 AD, just before the belfry was added. Finally, in 1360, the building topped out at 51m/167ft.

From the perspective of distance those who observe carefully can see that not only is the tower leaning (which is obvious), but that it is curved as well. Noting the lean, builders attempted to compensate by making some of the floors taller on the side opposite. The result gives the tower its slight banana shape.

Fortunately, since digging out 70 tons of earth from below the ground, the tower was reopened in 2001. Visitors in bunches of 30 can now go up inside for a 35-minute guided tour. Be sure to obtain tickets well in advance. It's a hugely popular attraction.

Now, tourists can see the surrounding area from on high, as well as some of the magnificent bells in the belfry. Not to worry about the lean, though. It's only 13 feet from the vertical and modern engineering has ensured a safe visit.

Tuscany - The personification of art in an entire region

Tuscany may be the world's only truly organic work of art. The region and all it contains is one enormous museum, both natural and man-made. Here, as in few other places, the beauty of nature and human creation are integrated into a harmonious whole.

For centuries the region has been the site of olive groves, wineries and hills of unparalleled loveliness. At the same time, cities like Siena, San Gimignano, Pisa and Florence have provided works of architecture, painting and sculpture that are at the pinnacle of achievement.

Though much of the look of Tuscany is from the Middle Ages and beyond, this region of Italy has been settled for over 3,000 years. Ancient Etruscans built homes and fortresses that are still extant. The Romans continued the effort and there is still much evidence of their influence. But it was with the late Middle Ages and the aptly named Renaissance that Tuscany came into its present greatness.

The Duomo (or, cathedral) in Pisa alongside the famed Leaning Tower is just one example. Two of the finest examples of Romanesque-Gothic architecture, both are still standing almost 1,000 years after their births. The Siena Cathedral is yet another example of outstanding religious-themed building that continues to delight visitors nine centuries after its first brick was laid.

The towers of San Gimignano, first erected as defensive structures in the Middle Ages, show that even warfare in this Italian region created art. There are other grisly reminders in this Tuscan town of a different kind of art, one that inflicts cruelty rather than inspires. The Medieval Torture Museum here provides over 100 examples of objects that, unfortunately, brought this human endeavor to a high art, too.

But a grander, more elevating type of art can be found in Fiesole, just outside Florence. Here the Roman Theater, erected in the 1st century BC, still offers plays and musical performances 2,000 years later. Visitors can hear the lines of a comedy by Terence or Plautus that were first spoken here two millennia earlier.

In Tuscany, even the towns are works of art. The Piazza Grande in Cortona provides one outstanding example. This hilltop town sports a Town Hall from the 6th century. But that's relatively recent compared to the ancient Etruscan walls erected over 2,600 years ago. The 'modern' Great Cloister of the Monastero Di Monte Oliveto Maggiore, built in 1443, provides frescoes that are the envy of anything to be found in more famous Florence.

But, of course, that great republic still retains the top spot in man-made creations. The Galleria dell'Accademia housing Michelangelo's David is one convincing piece of evidence. But the proof is sealed by the contents of the Uffizi Gallery, holding more Renaissance masterpieces per square yard than any other museum in the world.

Still, even the natural beauty of the Tuscan villas, the countryside and the great vistas of this peaceful corner of Italy compete well with the works of Raphael and Da Vinci. A short bike tour will persuade even the most ardent art lover of that.