Friday, December 28, 2007

Just cruising along Port Vell, Barcelona...

Barcelona is a city by the sea, the Mediterranean Sea to be exact. Like most coastal towns its history and ambiance are affected by that fact. For centuries the harbor was the scene of seafarers and townspeople bustling about on the traditional business that takes place at any port.

But Port Vell fell into disuse over the generations. Its warehouses fell empty, its railroads less traveled, its industrial buildings grew quiet. Fortunately, like many coastal towns such as San Francisco and Boston, Barcelona saw an opportunity to revitalize its seaside area.

In an ambitious urban renewal effort lasting years, the wharf became a yacht basin, the buildings transformed into shops, an IMAX and an aquarium. Its rail lines became walkways for the thousands that now throng the area every year. A coastal road was even moved underground to enable visitors to walk safely from one exciting offering to another.

The Maremagnum is one major attraction. This new wooden pedestrian bridge is more than just a walkway over space and water. It is itself a thing of beauty. It is an artistic and practical connection between the Rambla de Mar and many of the shops, theaters and restaurants that dot the area. Behind it lies the IMAX and the outstanding aquarium.

Like many in larger cities, the IMAX offers an enormous 3-D screen. But there is also a flat screen IMAX and an Omnimax. Here, visitors can take advantage of any of the three different shows that play continuously. There are discount tickets available that will get you into all three events.

The aquarium is the largest attraction of the area and its popularity is well deserved. With 8,000 aquatic animals, including a dozen sharks, this 1.5 million gallon facility will delight animal lovers of all ages. One section offers an 80m/262ft long observation tunnel. Along the glass walls you can see hundreds of native deep sea species, as well as the sharks.

South of the Maremagnum lies the Aduana building. The structure was erected in 1902 and served as the customs house. It now provides an outstanding sight for visitors who want to get a feeling for turn of the 20th century architecture in Barcelona. Nearby, stretched along the pier, is Barcelona's World Trade Center.

Even the sea sights will be of interest to many visitors. The upscale yachts and sailing ships are a delight to the eye. One can often see them moving gracefully around the sea just off shore. Take a boat tour and enjoy a view of Barcelona available nowhere else in the city. The peaceful cruise provides a nice contrast to the bustling waterfront.

Then take a stroll up the road a short way and spend some time viewing the Monument a Colon (Columbus Monument). The explorer is memorialized on top of a 60m/197ft column in the form of a statue that points toward the sea.

The monument, erected in 1888, resides at the site where the great man landed in 1493 after his discovery of the direct sea route to America. It is located in the center of the Placa del Portal de la Pau (Square of the Gate of Peace).

Enjoy an afternoon of sunbathing and dining or catch a show. Go cycling or rollerblading then have a cool drink at one of the many bars. Port Vell is easy to find. Just walk east until you hit a very large expanse of blue-green water topped by an azure sky, or take the Metro to Drassanes.

Appreciating the Piazza del Duomo in Pisa

The Leaning Tower of Pisa may be the most famous landmark of this Tuscan city. But, there are many other stellar sights to see in the Piazza del Duomo where the tower is located.

Scattered around lush green lawn lie some of the world's finest architectural achievements. There's the famed campanile, of course. But there is also the Duomo or cathedral itself to which the leaning tower is 'merely' a bell tower.

Begun in 1063, over a hundred years prior to the tower, the cathedral is the very prototype of late Romanesque architecture in this area of the world. With a floor plan in the standard shape of a cross, it is 100m (328 feet) long by 35m (115 feet) wide. Though not enormously tall by contemporary standards its 34m (112 feet) height would have been extremely impressive to citizens of its day.

Approach from the usual entrance and you'll see magnificent bronze doors, decorated with religious scenes that would have been fully familiar to its visitors. Carved in the 12th century by Bonanno, they're known as the Porta di San Ranieri.

There are Moorish influences around the building as well, owing to the Muslim traders the Italians did business with frequently. The cathedral was the first structure to incorporate horizontal stripes of marble of the sort commonly seen in Moorish architecture.

Some of the rounded arches provide a setting for outstanding mullioned windows. The carvings are so delicate it's difficult to believe they could have been accomplished at the time. Marble inlaid with Moorish lozenges at the top, they're truly works of art in themselves. 'Lozenges', in this style of architecture, resemble the shape of the cough drop, hence the name.

Regrettably, a fire in 1595 AD destroyed much of the original art work in the interior. But the building itself bears few traces of that tragic event. Among the outstanding surviving components are the 14th century pulpit with Corinthian columns resting on lion statuary. It's festooned with carved panels depicting scenes from the New Testament of the Christian Bible.

Above the apse lies a copy of a bronze griffin (a winged lion), believed to have been imported from Egypt in the 11th century. The original was moved to the nearby Museo del Duomo. The transept door sports Romanesque panels depicting the life of Christ that are a marvel to this day.

Another survivor of the fire is the tomb of Emperor Henry VII completed in 1315. Atop it are a pair of Ghirlandaio angels that visitors should be sure not to miss.

According to his student, it was within this church that Galileo watched a pendulum swaying back and forth one day. This was one of the keys to his formation of the law of the pendulum, which states that the period, the time of swing, is the same regardless of the angle it starts at. It forms the basis of many clock designs.

Looking up at the frescoed dome it's easy to imagine the famous scientist becoming distracted away from the sermon and toward the stupendous building.

Wednesday, December 26, 2007

Peace and quiet in Rome at Villa Borghese

Like every metropolitan city, Rome is a bustling, buzzing hive of outdoor activity. While much of that is naturally a source of excitement for tourists, there comes a time when anyone will want to find some peace and quiet. No spot in Rome could serve that purpose better than Villa Borghese.

Moderate-sized by some standards, the Villa Borghese is 148 acres (80 hectares) of greenery containing aviaries, museums and a stunning artificial lake. A vineyard in the 16th century, Cardinal Borghese had it transformed into a park with geometric landscaping ala Versailles. A villa, whose design was based on a sketch by Cardinal Borghese himself, was later constructed.

By the end of the 18th century an artificial lake had been added in the center, which contains a small Ionic temple dedicated to the God of Healing.

Aviaries held several exotic bird species like peacocks and ostriches for the Borghese's viewing pleasure and gazelles once graced the gardens.

Donated to the Eternal City at the turn of the 20th century, it had grown to hold several temples, fountains and numerous sculptures. Among the latter are the original Tritons from the Fountain of the Moor from the structure in the Piazza Navona. The ones currently in the fountain are 19th century replicas.

The park, open to the public for 100 years, holds many other delights as well. At certain times of the year visitors may be fortunate enough to catch one of the many horse-jumping events in Siena Square. The Piazza di Siena amphitheater is sometimes used for outdoor concerts and there is a botanical garden. Nearby is a beautiful 18th century arch, the 'Arco di Settimio Severo', a stunning example of Baroque architecture.

There's even a small bar located in the middle of the park where a hungry visitor can have some authentic Italian pasta or sip a Campari. Not far from there are several pavilions built for the 1911 World Exposition representing many countries.

But unquestionably, much of the impetus for tourists are the many museums housed on the grounds.

The Museo e Galleria Borghese, for example, has on display several sculptures by Bernini, the artist responsible for many of Rome's famous fountains. Among other pieces, Bernini's Abduction of Proserpina by Pluto is here. The gallery also holds many paintings by masters of the Renaissance including Titian and Raphael.

Also on the grounds is the Museo Nazionale Etrusco, housed in the Villa Giulia. The villa derives its name from having been built as a summer residence for Pope Julius II in 1553. As the name suggests, the museum contains a number of Etruscan works excavated from the hills outside Rome.

Located north of the Spanish Steps, the entrances are above the Piazza del Poppolo and the Porta Pinciana at one end of the Via Veneto. The Villa Borghese offers tired tourists the perfect respite in a busy holiday. Spend a half-day or longer, fully recharge and prepare to take on the incomparable Roman nightlife.

Disneyland in Paris!

Affectionately known as DLP by Mouseketeers the world over, Disneyland Paris is a cornucopia of rides, restaurants, exhibits and all out fun for everyone. And in the last few years the fun has been doubled as Disney added the Walt Disney Studios park to an already jam packed adventure.

Many of the traditional rides from the California theme park were recreated (with some French twists) at the park and resort only 32 kilometers (19 miles) outside Paris.

There's the familiar Pirates of the Caribbean, on which the recent films were based and the love-it-or-hate-it It's A Small World ride, along with dozens more. The Legend of the Lion King show regularly sells out, so get tickets in advance.

The Star Tours in Discoveryland is both entertaining and educational. Disney can put those together like no one else! There's also the extremely popular Big Thunder Mountain in Frontierland that just has to be visited twice.

Space Mountain Mission 2 opened in April, 2005 and - as if it were possible - is even better than the original. Several of the rides have been updated since the park's opening in 1992 and they just get better and better.

The new Buzz Lightyear Laser Blast is launching and, as usual, version two is a shiny improvement over the already great Anaheim offering.

The park even houses restaurants that, in true French style, offer some of the best meals anywhere. The steaks at The Steak House are thick and the wine bottles bottomless. The service is a joyful blend of Gallic pride and American efficiency. The buffet at Chef Mickey's is plentiful and delicious and the kids will enjoy the Disney characters dancing around.

To round out the trip there are, of course, tons of shops and small exhibits of the sort familiar to Disney fans everywhere. And nearby is the Val d'Europe shopping mall with dozens more.

Part-owned by Disney, there's a large grocery store/department store (Auchon) 'at the Val' and lots of food choices. There's even a local Sephora for those who want to bring back a bottle of genuine French perfume.

If needed, parents can rent a stroller at the park and there are baby changing facilities. The Baby Care Centre on Main Street, USA provides facilities and supplies.

Hours change depending on the season, with slightly longer hours during the summer. They change from time to time, so check the website at http://www.disneylandparis.com.

Since queues can be long, it's best to get the 1-Day Passport pass that allows unlimited entrance and exit access to one park for the day. There's also a 3-Day 'Hopper' Passport that allows access to both parks and the days don't have to be consecutive, but it's pricey. Of course, the one day isn't cheap either. Check the website for current prices.

Getting to the park is easy. From Paris take the RER Line A – Marne-la-Vallee/Chessy Station. From the Charles de Gaulle or Orly airports, the VEA shuttle service offers direct rides to the Disneyland Resort Paris hotels every half hour.

Enjoy!

Sunday, December 23, 2007

Romantic vacations in villas in Tuscany

The Bed and Breakfast scene in Tuscany is booming. For good reason, since it offers something considerably different from its counterparts in other countries. Here, one can stay in a huge castle over 1,000 years old, or a tiny villa a 'mere' 100 years of age. Add in the surrounding countryside with its million and one things to see and you've got some very impressive numbers.

You can find accommodations near Lucca, offering a great location from which to explore Puccini's childhood home or the excellent art collection at the Villa Guinigi. Only an hour from Florence, visits to Siena, Cortona and other towns are a short trip away.

Or, those planning a trip to Tuscany may want to get something close to the spa resort of Montecatini Terme. Near Pistoia and not far from Lucca, the Residence Le Coloniche offers great rooms and outstanding food.

The Villa Gamberaia is set among the hills above Florence, not far from Fiesole in Settignano. Here one can get a superb view of the Arno and visit the famed Renaissance Gardens. Completed in the 17th century, the topiary art alone (trees trimmed into animal shapes), makes the stay well worthwhile.

For those looking for an authentic Tuscan farmhouse experience there are many choices. One of them is the Villa Dianella. Nestled next to olive groves and vineyards, the surrounding area makes for a peaceful place to stay.

To visit the Chianti area of Tuscany, one could do no better than a stay at the Villa Belfiore. Only a few miles from Florence, one gets a view of the Chianti hills, along with centuries-old vineyards and a modern swimming pool.

For those who want more than just a view of the vineyards, Rocca delle Macie near Castellina, or San Felice near Siena offer wine tasting tours along with the accommodations. Don't miss seeing the nearby Castello di Uzzano, an 11th century castle that dominates the hilltop.

Some of the villas are museums, rather than places to stay. But they too are worth the trip.

The Villa Castello was already built when it was acquired by the Medici in 1477. The masterpieces by Botticelli that once hung here are now in the Uffizi. But the villa itself is such a work of art one hardly misses them.

The Villa Petraia, once part of the estate on which resides the Villa Castello, offers several interesting sights. This medieval-era tower was once a summer residence of the Medici. With 17th century frescoes by Volterra and a 19th century ballroom enclosed in glass, it offers sights the tourist to Tuscany won't want to miss. If that isn't sufficient enticement add in a stroll in the multi-level gardens. With its oak woodland and numerous flower beds lovers of human and nature's art will both be satisfied.

Investigate the options, book early and then relax and enjoy your stay in a Tuscan villa.

While in Tuscany, do visit the Galleria dell'Accademia

The Accademia di Belle Arti Firenze, or Academy of Beautiful Art of Florence, as it's more formerly known, is just what the name states: a school of art. And it's true that students do study art here. They have since the Grand Duke of Tuscany, Pietro Leopold, gathered several schools under one roof in 1784. The roots of the school go back further, however, to the Academy of Art Design, founded in 1561. Yet, for visitors, it is the many art galleries that attract attention.


There is an extensive painting collection, with works ranging from the 13th through the 16th centuries. Not least are the 24 panels by Taddeo Gaddi depicting scenes from the life of Jesus. The Gallery also offers works by Uccello, Ghirlandaio, del Sarto and Botticelli. The Cassone Adimari, painted in the 1440s by Lo Scheggia, continues to attract a wide audience. Many of the paintings were collected for the specific purpose of providing the students with old masters to emulate and there are several here that serve that purpose well.

But, unquestionably, the works on display that attract the largest crowds are the busts and sculptures, and in particular Michelangelo's David.

Off the end of the left wing is a 19th century hall with one wall that is festooned with plaster casts, busts and sculpture. Providing the students with many examples to follow, it will also be of interest to lovers of art who can but look, rather than create. The highlight here is the original plaster of the Rape of the Sabine Women by Giambologna. The completed marble piece is in the Loggia dei Lanzi.

Along the main hallway visitors encounter several unfinished works of the great master, Michelangelo. The Four Captives (or Slaves) provide a glimpse into the working technique of one of the greatest artists in history. Scholars have debated whether they truly were unfinished or intentionally left partially clad in stone with only certain features defined. But lovers of sculpture will simply stand in awe of what even a partial work of those hands of genius could display.

At the end, on a specially constructed platform called the tribune, stands the main attraction: the David.

Made from a 16-foot piece of stone so oddly shaped that several other artists had abandoned it as impossible to work with, Michelangelo found in it good working material. From its depths he chipped, chiseled and polished one of the highest examples of three dimensional art ever created.

Attacked in 1991 by a madman with a hammer who managed to damage several toes before being stopped, it now resides behind a Plexiglas barrier. But visitors will still get a very good view of the masterpiece when they can jostle their way sufficiently through the crowd. Moved from the Piazza del Signoria in 1873 to preserve it after four centuries in the sun and air, it offers a sample of the pinnacle of art in a city full of outstanding works. A copy now stands where it once did.

Set atop a high pedestal, the more than life-sized statue is plainly visible. Viewers can easily pick out the ultra-lifelike muscles and veins. One can almost feel the warmth from a living being as the David stands in a relaxed but alert pose, ready for battle. Finished in 1504 by an artist not yet 30 years old, it is justly the most famous piece of sculpture in the world.

Come to the Galleria dell'Accademia in Florence and see why for yourself.

Friday, December 21, 2007

In Rome, there is the Spanish Steps!

Though the name may not be entirely accurate (they were built by the French), the Spanish Steps in Rome deliver true delight to visitors of any nationality. 'Ah,' some will say, 'they are just stairs'. A way to get from the Villa Mèdici to the Piazza di Spagna. But, as any traveler knows, it's how you get there that counts as much as the destination.

Constructed between 1723 and 1725 the Spanish Steps or Scalinata di Spagna are 137 steps arrayed near the Piazza di Spagna - a triangular outdoor plaza and one of Rome's most frequently visited tourist destinations.

These lovely steps, dark, elegant and winding up a moderate graded hill, connect some of the most active and delightful areas in Rome. At the same time, they are beautiful to see all on their own. A pleasure anytime of year, they are especially wonderful in spring when the city festoons the area with azaleas from its many municipal greenhouses.

They are alive with flowers, people and the hint of the warm summer to come. Rome can be hot, in the mid-80s, even in late October. Nearby are some of Rome's most upscale boutiques and dozens of restaurants, shops and sidewalk cafes. The steps themselves used to be a favorite place to rest and have a small lunch, though that is now forbidden. Naturally, Rome being Rome, that law is often ignored.

At the bottom is the La Barcaccia fountain (Fountain of the Old Boat), one of Bernini's many great outdoor works in the Eternal City. In the center is a sculpture of a ship that may have been designed by his son, Gian Lorenzo. Commissioned by Pope Urbano VIII Barberini in 1627, the water flows outward through 'leaks' in the ship.

While you are at that end, stop in and see the Keats-Shelley Memorial House. Then have something cool to drink in one of the numerous bars before starting your climb.

As you travel up, there are three large flat areas on which to rest and people-watch, shop or eat. At the top, be sure to look back and admire the stunning view before continuing on to the Church of Trinta dei Monti.

More formally known as the Santissima Trinita al Monte Pincio, construction began in 1502 but continued for almost two centuries. Built in the late Gothic style, the facade is neo-classical. Outside there's an obelisk, one of Rome's many instances of this Egyptian-style sculpture, first brought to Rome around the 3rd century AD.

Only a couple of blocks away is the infamous Via Veneto where many Italian girl was ogled and pinched in the 1950s. Today, the area is tamer but no less interesting. It's full of shops, restaurants and beautiful examples of Rome's architecture, old and new.

No visit to Rome would be complete without visiting this landmark of Rome. Though created by the French, and named for the long-gone 18th century Spanish Embassy to the Vatican, it is an international delight to all.

Parc Guell - The park that is a work of art...

Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Parc Guell is yet another of architect Antonio Gaudi's great gifts to the city of Barcelona. Built between 1900-1914, this 20-hectare park sits on the hills to the north of Barcelona's main areas. It provides a peaceful oasis of lush greenery and outstanding architectural elements.

On the northern edge of town, visitors have a spectacular vista to see much of Barcelona arrayed below. The terraced gardens provide an excellent combination of the natural and artificial. Seating available shows another example of the colorful mosaic tile that Gaudi loved to incorporate in his design for the park.

Stop at the small cafe on the outer edge before entering and have a cool drink. Barcelona can get very hot and many of the hills are steep. For visitors needing a little more sustenance, there are several small restaurants to choose from. Note the outstanding dragon-themed fountain as you enter. Take a moment to enjoy the multi-colored tile adorning it. Then stroll down the flower-festooned walkways dotted with many mosaic tiles that show Gaudi's distinctive influence.

But there are just as many interesting sights further inside the park itself. There's a museum dedicated to Gaudi's art, filled with photos and other items both instructive and decorative. Once the architect's house, it contains furniture designed by Gaudi himself.

Outside once again, alongside the lush shrubbery reside many worthy sights, including sculpture, columns, restaurants and museums. Even the benches are works of art. There is one enormous, curved example that is famed throughout the city, the Paseo de Palmas.

Further on are still more examples of wondrous sights. The Hall of the Hundred Columns (Sala de las Cien Columnas) is an array of classical supports. But what they support is drawn from later styles, such as the romantic-era balcony, which is covered in mosaic tiles of a more modern design.

Nearby there's a walkway supported by twisted rock pillars, introducing yet another style. Irregular and organic in appearance, they demonstrate another facet of the organic eclecticism Gaudi embraced.

There are a number of entrances to the park and visitors will want to choose accordingly. Taking the metro to the Lesseps stop, brings one to the base. That leads to a steep climb up the hill on which the park rests. Challenging, but great exercise in Barcelona's fine air. Taking the metro to the stop at Vallcarca brings the traveler via outdoor escalators to the top of the park, allowing for an easy walk down the hill.

Admission to the park is free and most buildings open at 10 a.m.

Monday, December 17, 2007

The unique architecture of The Centre National d'Art et de Culture Georges-Pompidou

Known to Parisians simply as Beaubourg (after the neighborhood), The Centre National d'Art et de Culture Georges-Pompidou is a museum of modern art rivaling the best in New York or London.

By design, so to speak, the architecture of the 1977 building is in sharp contrast to the traditional surrounding houses of Paris' oldest district.

Looking like a cross between a hyper-modern factory joined to a low-rise office building, it accurately reflects its contents. The red, blue and green pipes on the rear are only one example of the tradition busting goals of its makers.

Air conditioning ducts are in blue, water pipes are green and electrical conduits are colored yellow. Escalators are in red and the ventilation shafts are white in the underground areas.

The architects goals were to 'turn the building inside out', and they've largely succeeded. A low glass box that looks like the scaffolding is yet to be removed, the modern heir to Bauhaus displays air-conditioning ducts and metal stairs on the exterior.All the better to provide space for works on the interior, so it's said.

Sponsored by and named after the French president, the museum is a faithful reflection of the art trends of the last century. Every recognized name of the last hundred years is here alongside hundreds lesser or entirely unknown. Among the collection of 56,000 works are well-known names such as Matisse, Pollock, Miro, Braque, Chagall, Dali, Duchamp, Picasso, Kandinsky, Magritte, Klee... even Kelly and Warhol.

The Ten Lizes Warhol is not to be missed. An array of five small paintings atop another five, the work depicts Elizabeth Taylor in the now-familiar Warhol style. Multi-hued, multi-contrast and sharp-grained it presents Warhol at his Warholyist.

All the art movements of the last century are represented. There are examples of Fauvism, Cubism, Surrealism and Abstract Expressionism along with many that have no names.

Built at a cost of $100 million, the cultural center houses four major activities within its million square feet: the exhibits, a reference library, a center for industrial design and a center for music and acoustic research.

Ride the Plexiglas escalator to the top where there is a panoramic restaurant, 'Le Georges' at level six. One can sit and look out on the street performers at the Place George Pompidou in front, or view the nearby Stravinsky Fountain.

Pricey, but with good views of the skyline, the visitor can see Montparnasse, the Eiffel Tower and much more. Rest and refresh before continuing to view the massive collection.

The museum is easy to find. Take the metro (subway) to Rambuteau or Hotel de Ville.

The Pantheon - The work of genius that stood the test of time

Few ancient buildings have survived the ravages of time so well as the Pantheon in Rome. It is the only example of similar age, size and span that remains intact. The fact is no accident - it's largely the result of superior engineering.

Often copied, sometimes equaled but never surpassed, it had more architectural innovations than most modern buildings. All the more remarkable, given that it was built around 125 AD under the aegis of the emperor Hadrian.

The plan is simple enough: a circular enclosure aside a rectangular entrance. The entrance sports a classic Greek portico of granite columns topped by a triangular pediment. There are three ranks of the 39 ft Corinthian supports, eight in front and two sets of four further in leading to the main rotunda. A rectangular section joins the portico to the rotunda.

But within that simple design are a dozen signs of genius.

The giant concrete dome topping the cylinder forming the major component was so well designed and built that no similar type would stand up under its own weight.

The dome is 142 feet in diameter (46 feet larger than that crowning the White House in Washington, DC), while the oculus at the peak is over 25 feet of that total. It stands as a result of its unusual composition, outstanding engineering and brilliant construction.

Just one example is the oculus in the center - the opening through the top. It decreases the overall weight and serves as a ring that distributes stress around its circumference. Imagine, by analogy, how difficult it is to crush a bicycle wheel.

It also serves to admit light to the interior. And rain, too it must be said, though the floor is an early example of slanting the floor toward drains.

The dome's tapering steps provide yet more evidence of the mastery of craft displayed by the dome's designer. It's 20 feet thick at the base, 7.5 at the oculus and composed of heavier material at the bottom, lighter as it rises. That doesn't seem so remarkable until one considers that many architects a thousand years later ignored this simple idea.

Nearly two thousand years after its birth the Pantheon in Rome is as stable today as when it was first built. Yet it was constructed without the benefit of machines or modern tools.

Nor did the Pantheon engineers have the advantage of modern transportation methods. All the materials were floated down the Tiber and moved to the site by man and animal on carts of the period.

Though its enormous bronze doors have been restored many times, no major structural work has ever had to be undertaken. This is all the more remarkable given the marshy land on which the structure is built.

By contrast, observe there have been several decades-long projects to preserve the Leaning Tower of Pisa, owing in part to the soft ground in parts of the site. The Parthenon in Greece, though a great building, was a virtual ruin 2,000 years after its birth.

The Pantheon in Rome was first converted to a church during the 8th century and continues to serve that purpose today. In fact, the building has been in continuous use since first being built.

This amazing building has often been copied, two notable examples being the British Museum Reading Room and the Thomas Jefferson Rotunda at the University of Virginia.

When in Rome, be sure to spend time viewing the original.