The Seine River in Paris

Whether seen by a long, leisurely walk or from one of the many excellent tour boats, the view along the Seine in Paris is a delight.

The river flows nearly 800km (480mi) from Dijon through Paris and into the English Channel. But even the short section through the city provides enough sights to satisfy the most discerning traveler.

La Tour Eiffel can be seen changing shades from cocoa to gold as dusk fades to dark. The lights along its four pillars melding into the spire are only one of the many sights not to be missed.

Joining the left and right banks (the 'rive gauche' and the 'rive droit') along this ancient river are bridges themselves no stranger to time.

The oldest extant is Pont Neuf, ironically called 'the new bridge', whose first stone was laid by Henry III in 1578. Continued during the reign of his successor Henry IV in 1598, the construction was an enormous undertaking for the time. Finally completed in 1607, the bridge itself is, in a sense, older than France. At the time, the country was still split into fairly independent regions, such as Burgundy, Champagne and Normandy.

One of its newer cousins is the Pont d'Austerlitz constructed from 1854 to 1885. Comprised of five cast iron arches with a span of 32m (105ft), it rests on four piers and two stone abutments. (Abutments are the supports for the ends of a bridge.) The bridge has been widened twice from its original 13m (43ft) to the present 30m (98ft).

But not only youth and age are represented along these shores. Elegant beauty, in the form of the Alexander III, is also here. Opened in 1900, the bridge connects the Grand Palais on the right bank to the Invalides on the left. With pillars decorated by a gilded bronze Pegasus and large lampposts encircled by cherubs and nymphs, the Alexander III is among Paris' most artistic public works.

The many tour boats provide another way to see the sights. Some are small, others larger, but they all offer a relaxed way to see the bridges and parts of Paris from another point of view.

The visitor can enjoy a glass of wine as the lights come on along the Montparnasse. The larger boats even offer lunch or dinner. From the uncovered flat boats tours are given in English and French. Several glide as far as past the Eiffel Tower and back past Notre Dame to Quai Henri IV.

Accessible from the center of the Pont Neuf, just walk down to the tip of the island, to Square du Vert Galant.

Once you've completed the boat tour, don't forget about the other attractions. From the exit it's just a short walk to many other things to do and see.

Just down the bank is one of the finest art museums in the world, the Musée d'Orsay. And there are several small galleries and shops along the way. Be sure to walk down the stone steps to the river itself and see the bridges from underneath as well.

Enchanté!

Domus Aurea: The Golden House of Nero in Rome

One of the more recent attractions in Rome is actually one of the more ancient. The Golden House of Nero, what remains of it, has been excavated and the ruins are now available for public viewing. Though re-discovered during the Renaissance, they were the subject of a massive restoration project near the end of the 20th century.

Constructed in 64 AD after the devastating fire that burned two-thirds of Rome (at which legend has it Nero fiddled), the Golden House is an archaeological treasure trove. At one time many parts were covered with gold foil and the ceiling festooned with ivory and jewels by the extravagant emperor. Alas, these are not on display. They were stripped from the palace shortly after Nero's death.

The original palace and related structures covered 350 acres that included a man-made lake, vineyards and the house itself. Terming the villa a house, however, is misleading. It contained 300 rooms, but is thought to have had no sleeping quarters. None that were intentional, at least. No doubt many passed out where they were during the parties for which Nero was famed.

It was the original site of the huge statue Nero had made, bearing his own likeness of course, that was later relocated to outside the Colosseum. The bronze base of the 40m/130ft statue can still be seen there.

Though much has been destroyed over the centuries, there still remains enough to satisfy anyone looking to spend an interesting hour or two tour in a cool place. That's always welcome in Rome, where the temperature can be in the mid-80s even in late October.

The underground, audio-guided tour offers enormous, fresco-covered vaults and many rooms to explore. The frescoes painted by Fabullus, a noted artist of the period were executed in a style popular in Pompeii, the doomed city not far from Rome.

The Renaissance artist Raphael used them as models for some of his own work, and many Renaissance artists - including Michaelangelo - went to visit the (then) newly discovered palace frescoes. Both artists left their signatures scratched in the walls, to be later joined by such luminaries as Casanova and the Marquis de Sade.

The tour shows a wide variety - some areas are shadowed ruins with barely visible carvings. Others are fully restored golden and marble walls with largely intact paintings and fireplaces.

Grottos abound in the underground area, but the most impressive portion is unquestionably the Octagon Room. Here Nero, a great fan of Greek art, housed a statue of the Dying Gaul, which can now be seen in the Pallazo Altemps museum.

Outside, there are gardens and a reconstruction of the octagonal room that allow the visitor to clearly imagine what living there must have been like.

The Eiffel Tower in Paris, quite simply the most romantic location on earth...

Originally intended as a structure to commemorate the French Revolution, who could've guessed that 100 years later The Eiffel Tower would become the symbol of Paris itself?

But, judging by the six million annual visitors and the millions of photographs, that's what it has become. To date the tower has received over 200 million visitors since its completion in 1889.

For two years, three hundred workers joined over 18,000 pieces of structural iron to form the tower's three distinct levels. Those levels currently house over 1,500 steps. The number has varied over the years with different renovations. But the visitor can be grateful not to have to climb the 300 meter (984 ft) tower, thanks to the many elevators. The uppermost portion supports a 24m (79ft) spire.

By far the tallest structure in Paris, the tip may bend away from the vertical by as much as 18cm (7in) due to expansion of its 7,300 metric tons of iron. Warming by the sun heats one side more than the other.

That's all the more remarkable since wind shear is usually the major problem with tall structures. But, the engineering is so well-thought out that the strongest winds cause no more than five inches of deflection.

Every seven years the entire structure is re-painted (using 50 tons of paint) to prevent rusting. Visitors can vote on the next color to be used by means of a computer housed in the tower.

Among many remarkable statistics about the tower is its history as the world's tallest structure until being overtaken by the Chrysler Building in 1930. Quite a long reign considering there were widespread petitions to have it torn down by some who considered it ugly and intrusive.

That might have succeeded if it hadn't been in use as an antenna for the then-leading-edge technology of telegraphy. More than just decorative, the tower has been used as part of a communications system almost from the start. In 1909 a permanent underground radio center was built and since 1957 it's been used as a transmission tower for both FM radio and television.

The tower has even been part of scientific research. In 1910, Wulf used it to make measurements that resulted in the discovery of cosmic rays.

But in typical Gallic fashion the practical use exists side-by-side with the aesthetic. The tower holds two restaurants: Altitude 95 on the first level, and the Jules Verne on the second. The latter has earned one star in the Michelin Guide and is accessible via a private elevator.

Apart from appearing in millions of photographs and thousands of television commercials, it has been used more directly as an advertising vehicle. From 1925 to 1934 the tower supported billboards for the automaker Citroen.

But the tourist needs no commercial to motivate a visit. The view from the observation platform, especially at dusk, more than exceeds any expectations set by ads. All of Paris twinkles below as the city is illuminated by both the onset of electric lights and the fading sun.

To visit the tower, take the Metro - the Paris subway - to the Trocadero station. Then, walk from the Palais de Chaillot to the Seine.

Las Ramblas in Barcelona

Once exclusively a flower market, the bustling Las Ramblas area of Barcelona is the perfect place for shopping and people watching. Once lined with convents and churches, the streets are now thronged with performers, magazine vendors and a hundred other things. The convents and monasteries were all closed by 1830.

There are no cars allowed in the central sections. They are constrained to two small one-way streets on either side of the pedestrian areas. So, you can walk at your leisure among the many things to see and do.

Meander along from the Placa Catalunya, past the famed statue of Columbus, to the water's edge. There are many paths to choose from. The Rambla dels Ocells (Avenue of the birds) is aptly named for the once popular bird market in this old part of the Spanish city. The Rambla de les Flors once held the only flower shops in the city. Along the Rambla dels Caputxins there are old buildings, kiosks full of books and interesting people galore.

You'll pass by the opera house of Liceu Theatre situated at the midpoint of the Ramblas. Along the way, stop and see the Miró Mosaic. This circular tile created by the Spanish artist attracts thousands to the area every year. You'll also pass the outside of the famed produce market, Mercat de la Boqueria. Rest a while at the Cafe de la Opera and enjoy a bracing cup of coffee, Barcelona style.

There's no longer any need to avoid the Barri del Raval, once the red-light district of the city. If you hit the area in the evening, you'll find dozens of small restaurants and bars to choose from that will delight any tourist.

Art lovers should be sure to walk along Carrer de Montalegre where the Centre de Cultura Contemporània de Barcelona is located. It houses the restored Museu d'Art Contemporani, which holds many permanent and roving exhibitions.

The Barri Gotic, the Gothic section, contains many architectural wonders to explore, including the famed cathedral, La Seu. It stands in the center of the original city and forms part of Barcelona's two thousand year history. Nearby is the church of Santa Maria del Mar, which offers a representative example of Catalonian Gothic architecture.

Music lovers will want to catch one of the many afternoon concerts at Sant Josep Oriol. They're a little more organized than the random street performers. But the latter are often just as professional, so sample both.

Now head for shopping at nearby Portal de l'Àngel and Portaferrissa. Along the central boulevard are hundreds of clothing shops, antique stores and more. Most everyone will want to head for the El Cortes Ingles in Placa Catalunya Square at the northern end. This seven-story department store is the rival of Harrod's in London, Macy's in New York and the other great shopping meccas of the world.

You could spend your entire vacation, not to mention your entire bank account, in the Las Ramblas of Barcelona. And that would be a great choice!

Montmartre of Paris!

Montmartre is a fascinating mixture of old and new, seedy and sacred, bizarre and blasé. Within this section of Paris, technically the 18th arrondissement, there is everything from Moulin Rouge and Musée d'Erotisme to the Sacré Coeur Basilica. There are several art shops, a Dali museum and even a winery.

(Note: An 'arrondissement' is a district, laid out around Paris clockwise, with the 1st at the center of the clock face.)

There are steep hills in parts, so be prepared for a hike, particularly up to the Basilica. But there are cobblestoned streets, too, with antique shops and 'bistros'.

The word 'bistro' comes from the Russian meaning 'quick'. It was first imported in the early 19th century by Cossack occupiers who wanted to be fed immediately. Everything from frogs legs to Tarte Tatin is served at spots as old as 1793 in the Place du Tertre.

At the Espace Montmartre one can view an original Dali etching and browse to the glares of the staff. The museum houses Dali sculpture, lithographs, drawings and even some furniture pieces.

For a different art experience visit the Musée de Montmartre. This 17th century house holds apartments once occupied by Renoir, Utrillo and other famous names. Renoir's Galette, sold at auction in 1990 for $78 million, was finished here. Among other works, there are several original Toulouse-Lautrec posters on display.

And while you're thinking of Lautrec, don't forget to visit (at least the outside of) Moulin Rouge. Very pricey ($100 or more), with a floor show garnering mixed reviews, the windmill on the exterior is a photo-op not to be bypassed.

About 20 minutes walk from the Sacré Coeur Basilica, there are several other nightclubs in the area, as well. Beware the Pigalle neighborhood, though. It constitutes one of the seedier areas around.

By contrast, the Montmartre cemetery located in the eastern part of the district, is a pleasant park nearby. Tree-lined and festooned with flowers and dotted with benches, there are tombs and mausoleums galore.

And if you visit in mid-October you might even be able to catch the Grape Festival not far away. Hosting the only vineyard in Paris, Clos Montmartre (at 12 Rue Cortot) was planted in 1933 and has 2,000 vines under cultivation. Most varieties grown in France are represented and the wine lover won't be disappointed.

For those who like a hike, start at the Abbesses Metro. Take a few minutes to enjoy the Art Nouveau awning and the mosaics around the door of the Eglise St Jean l'Evangéliste.

While you're nearby, visit the crypt in the Chappelle du Martyre (at 9 Rue Yvonne-Le-Tac). The first Bishop of Paris, St Denys, is laid to rest here at the site where Loyala, the founder of the Jesuits, took his vows. (Open only on Friday.)

Most will want to finish their visit with a trip to the Sacré Coeur Basilica at the top of the hill. Whether standing on the white steps or up in the dome, the views are spectacular. Go early to avoid the crowds and the heat.

Montmartre is accessible via several metro (subway) lines. M12 (Lamarck-Caulaincourt) or M4 (Chateau-Rouge), Blanche station, etc. Anything which leads to the 18th arrondissement.

Barcelona, the city of Gaudi architecture

The architect Antonio Gaudi (1852-1926) didn't create Barcelona. The city is over 2,000 years old and the famed artist was active around the end of the 19th century. But much that is worthy in this Spanish city is the result of his efforts. Just a list of the works he created that are still extant here would fill pages. To describe them would take volumes.

Unquestionably the most well known of his buildings in Barcelona is the Sagrada Familia, otherwise known as the Temple of the Holy Family. The structure almost defies description. Part neo-Gothic, part neo-Baroque it is sui generis. A series of spires topping a church begun in 1883, it is still under construction.

The Park Guell on nearby Montjuic, completed in 1914, is one of the architect's civil engineering projects. It is a 20-hectare expanse filled with lush greenery and art objects that visitors to Central Park in New York would envy. Whether it's the outstanding lizard sculpture or the famed enormous wavy bench, or just a touch of mosaic tile here and there, the distinctive Gaudi look is clearly evident.

Another structure almost as well known and as often visited is the Casa Milà, or La Pedrera (The Stone Quarry). Originally designed as a private home, it quickly evolved into a set of individual apartments. The organic, undulating balconies give the facade its unique look from the street, but the organic Gaudi elements are everywhere in and on the structure. From the ice-cream cone-shaped chimneys to the seaweed-style wrought iron to the hushed, glowing attic, the building is Gaudi throughout.

Several other structures of the man regarded as the Father of Spanish Art Nouveau demonstrate his worthiness to that title.

Casa Batllo, erected in 1907, is one of the many Gaudi buildings on the UNESCO World Heritage list of worthy treasures that prove the point. As in the Casa Milà, the architect's unusual style is readily visible. The balconies that almost resemble sections of skull around the eye sockets combine with a colorful mosaic-like facade that seems to be melting. The curved chimney complex set in front of an orange clamshell roofline is yet more proof of his unique style.

Gaudi employed organic shapes everywhere, but always adapted them to his own purposes, just as the better known Frank Lloyd Wright always did. That is clear in the Colonia Guell chapel. The unique arches bear the stamp of this unusual artist. Festooned with organic carvings, the arches themselves are sharp angled, yet blend seamlessly into a main structure that appears almost cavelike.

In a city full of outstanding architecture, Gaudi's work continues to be frequently visited by locals and tourists alike. A single glance at any of his buildings makes it easy to see why.

The Uffizi Gallery in Florence

It's rare for an art museum to have too many masterpieces to display. That happy fate befell the Uffizi Gallery in Florence when the last of the Medici, Electress Anna Maria, willed the entire family collection to the gallery in 1743. The results, collected over several centuries, provide a view of one of the finest treasure troves of art anywhere in the world.

The Uffizi occupies a building originally intended as office space for the Grand Duke Cosimo I (1519-1574). 'Uffizi' in Italian means 'office'. The gallery itself was completed in 1581 from a design by Vasari, under the sponsorship of Cosimo's son, Francisco. Gradually, the Medici transferred more and more works here, creating the world's first public art museum in 1591.

Many art museums start with a small, sometimes outstanding, collection of privately collected works. Here, as with everything they did the Medici - rulers of Florence off and on for generations - packed them in by the cartload.

Works are presented in chronological order, giving viewers the opportunity to see the whole panoply of Renaissance art in the manner it developed. That display constitutes not just an education but an experience of a lifetime.

Among the works here are the famed Venus by Botticelli. The Ognissanti Madonna by the late Gothic master, Giotto, is on display. It is kept company by The Madonna and Child with Two Angles, by Lippi, along with hundreds more equally great works. Raphael's Madonna of the Goldfinch resides not far from a Bacchus by Caravaggio.

One wall holds the Venus of Urbino by Titian. Another displays the Baptism of the Christ by del Verrocchio. Michelangelo's Doni Tondo is one of the lesser works in this superb collection. Da Vinci's Annunciation is just down the corridor. The famed Mannerist painting, The Madonna of the Long Neck by Parmigianino resides in the Uffizi.

Outstanding as that portion of the collection undoubtedly is, there is much more to the Uffizi than Italian Renaissance works of the masters.

Rembrandt's Self-Portrait as an Old Man is one example. The Adoration of the Magi by the great German master, Albrecht Dürer is yet another. El Greco, Goya and Velasquez are all well represented.

Many later works are on display, too, including over 250 self-portraits one of which is of Chagall who handed his to the curator personally. Works by Ingres, Delacroix and Rubens can be seen in the narrow corridors. The museum also holds almost 1,400 miniatures, second only to the collection in the Victoria and Albert Museum in London.

The Uffizi remains one of Florence's most popular attractions. In a city full of outstanding art, both indoor and out, that is quite an achievement. When so many outstanding artists are represented in one collection visitors will be offered more than can be seen in one afternoon. To view the collection, then, and actually see it, will take some planning. During the summer it can take several hours to get in without a reservation. Therefore, booking well in advance is vital.

But the small effort will be richly rewarded. Nowhere else in the world is there quite this comprehensive display of so many fine works.

A visit to Maison de Victor Hugo in Paris...

'Maison' is French for 'house'. In this case the word is slightly misleading. While no palace, though sited in the Place des Vosges - originally known as Place Royale - the site is no simple domicile. These sprawling apartments were the home of the famed writer between 1832 and 1848. Hugo fled from the revolution in that year.

Hugo was the author of such well-known (if less widely read) works such as Les Misérables and The Hunchback of Notre Dame. He also penned lesser known, but far superior works, such as Ninety-Three and The Man Who Laughs.

A treat even for those with only a passing interest in literature, the Victor Hugo museum is chock full of drawings, mementos, 19th century furniture and more. The Chinese salon from Hugo's house on Guernsey has been relocated here, as well.

The square outside the house is a delightful beginning. Lined with brick houses, arcades and a garden, it's easy to imagine the author approaching along cobblestoned streets.

As he neared, he would have seen (as visitors can today) a large red and white brick facade atop several large arches. The top of the house displays classical Greek ornamentation typical of the period.

Inside, along with first editions of the writer's works, is a painting of his funeral procession at the Arc de Triomphe. At the time of his death his fame and popularity were so great that millions came to mourn his passing.

There are also portraits of his family. Alongside are drawings and documents showing the life story of Hugo and the many artists he knew as friends. Balzac and Dumas, Paganini and Liszt, Musset and many more dined here. Even Dickens and the Duke of Orleans paid visits.

Inaugurated as a museum in 1903, several years after the author's death, the layout is not exactly as it was during his lifetime. Much of the furniture was auctioned off in 1852.

Nevertheless, the second floor apartment bears a great resemblance to what it was then. It is easy to imagine the great writer at his desk, where his inkwell and handwriting samples can still be seen. Here he wrote several of his masterpieces, including Ruy Blas and Songs of the Twilight.

The rooms also house works displaying the author's lesser known talents, such as original drawings and photographs. There are even items of furniture designed by Hugo, who learned the craft working in the theater.

Exiting down the creaking staircase and out again to the Place des Vosges, be sure to have a croissant on a bench and take your time viewing the many buildings of the Marais district.

Constructed during the early 17th century there are nearly 40 large 'maisons' here. Viewing them, one can easily forget that modern bustling Paris is only a few blocks away.

The museum is easy to get to via the metro (subway). Exit at Chemin-Vert, Saint-Paul or Bastille.

The Romun Forum - A center of political and cultural life

Located in a valley between Palatine Hill and Capitoline Hill, the Forum Romanum is one of the foremost archaeological sites in the world. Long before the first millennium the forum was the center of political and cultural life for the Roman Empire.

Under construction for centuries, by the 7th century BC it was already a major part of Roman culture. It grew into final form under Octavian, son of Julius Caesar in the decades around the beginning of the first millennium.

Composed of a dozen temples, arches and other structures, it was rightly called the Forum Magnum (the Great Forum) by those who had many to choose from. Built on drained marsh land, it provided a focal point for commerce, legal administration and social interaction for the citizens and rulers of Rome.

The structures fell into ruin after the Roman Empire collapsed in the early part of the 5th century AD, parts of it being used in the Middle Ages for grazing cattle. But with the re-birth called the Renaissance it was rediscovered. A long restoration effort began in the Age of Reason at the beginning of the 18th century and continues to this day.

Today, echoes of its grandeur can still be seen around the large complex of buildings.

Archaeologists and others have relined its paved streets, picked away the debris of centuries and opened the forum to the public. The facility is far too large to be seen in one day, but even a small sample of what's there is enough to give visitors a good sample of what was the glory of Rome.

The Temple of Venus and Roma is just one example of the massive scale at which the Romans executed their public projects. A huge temple designed and built by the Emperor Hadrian, it sits atop a plateau facing the Colosseum.

The Temple of Concord is equally impressive. Dedicated to peace, it was completed in 367 BC on the western end of the Forum. Once a repository of statues made of gold and silver, it remains a shining reminder of what the builders of Rome could accomplish.

There are many more. The Temples of Saturn, Castor and Pollux, Vespasian and several others all demonstrate the vision made real by the Roman emperors and their architects. But there are many structures besides the temples as well.

Arches, invented and perfected by the Romans and not improved on for a thousand years, line many of the walkways. The Arch of Titus and the Arch of Septimus Severus are only two out of many outstanding examples.

The Rostra, from which politicians made speeches, is still in evidence. Standing beneath it one can easily be transported back to a time in many ways very similar to our own. The Lapis Niger, or Black Stone, is a shrine that shows another aspect of the endless creativity of the builders. The Via Sacra, a shrine connected to it, is yet another.

No one can truly be said to have seen Rome until they've spent at least a day wandering around the grounds of this magnificent monument. It may just provide a needed reminder of what can be accomplished, and how easily it may be lost.

Notre Dame - The timeless symbol of France

Second only to the Eiffel Tower as the recognized symbol of France, the Cathédrale Notre Dame is both a tourist destination and a working church.

Built between 1163AD and 1345AD the Gothic masterpiece remains today one of the world's great structures. The enormous interior can seat 6,000 at the base. But, for many, the major attraction is the 387-step climb to the top of the famous towers.

Once reached via that winding, narrow passageway the visitor enters a large area dominated by a huge church bell and spectacular sights. From here it's easy to imagine the fictional Quasimodo (the Hunchback of Notre Dame) ringing the 13-ton bell and clambering on the gargoyles around the perimeter.

The near-360 degree view of Paris and the close-up views of the many statuary make the climb well worth the effort. Take care coming up, though. There's no guard rail and traffic runs both ways. Those coming down often cling to the wall, while climbers risk the outer edge on the steps.

Seen from the exterior, the building represents one of the pinnacles of High Gothic architecture. There are gargoyles, yes. But there is also the huge round window centered atop the west entrance, and magnificent high arches flanking the sides. Two more rose windows reside on the north and south faces.

The facade is festooned with the carvings of the many craftsmen who worked on the structure over the centuries. The west front alone contains 28 statues representing religious figures throughout history.

Entering the church is equally an uplifting experience. The high, rib-vaulted ceilings and the many stained-glass windows give the interior an appearance that awes, no matter how well prepared the visitor. Though in many ways typical of the period, the design is nonetheless staggering.

Here it's easy to picture the slaying of the medieval Bishop or the 1804 self-crowning of Napoleon or the return of General de Gaulle at the end of WWII. The 7,800-pipe organ alone makes a visit worthwhile.

It's nearly unthinkable now for the cathedral to not exist.

But for a time during the 19th century the fate of the church was very much in doubt. The structure had fallen into disrepair over the centuries and there was serious discussion of tearing it down.

Victor Hugo wrote his famous novel in part in order to call attention to the history and value of the building. His efforts, joined by several other well-known artists of the time, resulted in a renewed interest and the building was restored.

Reinstating the unusual triforium and the small clerestory windows in the east bay of the nave were only two among many efforts in a project begun in 1844 and lasting 23 years.

Notre Dame is easy to find from the Saint-Michel or Chatelet-Les Halles metro (subway) stations.